i want to start a mhc tank
i want to start a mhc tank
i want to start a marine hermie tank any advise or easy to care crab description
“If all mankind were to disappear, the world would regenerate back to
the rich state of equilibrium that existed ten thousand years ago.
If insects were to vanish, the environment would collapse into Chaos"
-E.O. Wilson
the rich state of equilibrium that existed ten thousand years ago.
If insects were to vanish, the environment would collapse into Chaos"
-E.O. Wilson
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Guest
is their any sites about marine hermies please put a like about marine hermies oh and great advise hermie
“If all mankind were to disappear, the world would regenerate back to
the rich state of equilibrium that existed ten thousand years ago.
If insects were to vanish, the environment would collapse into Chaos"
-E.O. Wilson
the rich state of equilibrium that existed ten thousand years ago.
If insects were to vanish, the environment would collapse into Chaos"
-E.O. Wilson
-
Guest
As long as you know the process of starting up a Salt Water Aquarium you will be able to keep marine hermit crabs.
Since most hermit crabs sold for salt water setups are considered Clean Up Crews, there really isn't any care info on them.
I have a 75gal reef tank and a few blue leg, scarlet, and unidentified hermit crabs they pretty much eat anything they can get a hold of. You don't have to feed them directly in a reef tank but for a species specific setup you could feed them meaty sea foods or sinking pellets. You could also just let them graze on the macro algae that will grow in the tank. As for their habits from what I've seen they don't need to bury themselves they will find a small crevice and jam themselves in when the want to molt. I've had some blue legs that had clutches of eggs and at night I would see the small babies floating around towards my flashlight. So breeding in captivity is possible.
Since they live in water they are sensitive to impurities in tap water. You will want to use Reverse Osmosis water to have greater success in their survival.
When I was a Kid I had a 10gal with crushed coral substrate. I used well water to mix the Instant Ocean salt. The tank actually did good even though I never did any water changes. For filtration I had a small Power Filter with a sponge for biological filtration. Also had 2 damsel fish but one died.
Excellent website for all things Salt Water
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/
Since most hermit crabs sold for salt water setups are considered Clean Up Crews, there really isn't any care info on them.
I have a 75gal reef tank and a few blue leg, scarlet, and unidentified hermit crabs they pretty much eat anything they can get a hold of. You don't have to feed them directly in a reef tank but for a species specific setup you could feed them meaty sea foods or sinking pellets. You could also just let them graze on the macro algae that will grow in the tank. As for their habits from what I've seen they don't need to bury themselves they will find a small crevice and jam themselves in when the want to molt. I've had some blue legs that had clutches of eggs and at night I would see the small babies floating around towards my flashlight. So breeding in captivity is possible.
Since they live in water they are sensitive to impurities in tap water. You will want to use Reverse Osmosis water to have greater success in their survival.
When I was a Kid I had a 10gal with crushed coral substrate. I used well water to mix the Instant Ocean salt. The tank actually did good even though I never did any water changes. For filtration I had a small Power Filter with a sponge for biological filtration. Also had 2 damsel fish but one died.
Excellent website for all things Salt Water
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/
i want to start it in my 10 gal and how do i put the shells or do the shells grow with them and what shells the same as LHC or what.
“If all mankind were to disappear, the world would regenerate back to
the rich state of equilibrium that existed ten thousand years ago.
If insects were to vanish, the environment would collapse into Chaos"
-E.O. Wilson
the rich state of equilibrium that existed ten thousand years ago.
If insects were to vanish, the environment would collapse into Chaos"
-E.O. Wilson
-
Guest
When you go to purchase the hermit crabs look around the stores salt water tanks and see if there are any empty shells larger than the hermit crabs you choose. Then just ask if you can get some extra shells for your hermit crabs. I have gotten shells for free and larger ones had to pay a little around $2 dollars for 5 or more 3/4" size shells. Nice thing about shells from the aquariums is that you can get hitchikers like Copepods or Amphipods.
You can also use shells from craft stores and from the Land Hermit Crab stores. But isn't necessary since they don't really need such pretty shells since algae and other things will eventually grow on the shells. All of the shells in my reef tank are grown over with hard koraline algae.
Oh yeah you won't need to use any special supplements for the crabs since they will get that all from doing normal water changes.
You can also use shells from craft stores and from the Land Hermit Crab stores. But isn't necessary since they don't really need such pretty shells since algae and other things will eventually grow on the shells. All of the shells in my reef tank are grown over with hard koraline algae.
Oh yeah you won't need to use any special supplements for the crabs since they will get that all from doing normal water changes.
so what i mix the water,put it in the tank let it age and test it with the test kit,wait,put sand and live rock, put a few corals , and bam right ,also can i add an anemone and 2 ocellaris clowns
“If all mankind were to disappear, the world would regenerate back to
the rich state of equilibrium that existed ten thousand years ago.
If insects were to vanish, the environment would collapse into Chaos"
-E.O. Wilson
the rich state of equilibrium that existed ten thousand years ago.
If insects were to vanish, the environment would collapse into Chaos"
-E.O. Wilson
-
Guest
Here are some online vendors that carry marine hermit crabs. The photos will help you decide what crabs you would want. I've seen most of these hermits available at my local fish store.
http://liveaquaria.com/product/aquarium ... ?c=497+501
http://www.saltwaterfish.com/site_11_03 ... 4&x=5&y=14
http://liveaquaria.com/product/aquarium ... ?c=497+501
http://www.saltwaterfish.com/site_11_03 ... 4&x=5&y=14
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Guest
Uuuuh No. You need to cycle it, so that the bacteria is stable to support life, you need to wait a good month in between adding live rock and adding actual creatures.
As for corals, you need test kits for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH, phosphate, magnesium, calcium, alkalinity and that's the basic test kits. You need to research the corals you want, so you know which lighting fixture you'll need and they get expensive fast, a decent one can run more then $200. If you want corals you also need a protein skimmer which can also get very expensive.
You could keep a single clownish in a 10g but thats really pushing it, their active fish that need 20-30g to be comfortable, IMHO I wouldn't even put one in a 10g. And a definite no to an anemone, they have no place in a 10g they need specialized care, and extremely stable tanks, and you just don't get that sort of stability in a 10g, plus the lighting needed for one causes algae galore unless you have RO water and watch parameters extremely carefully, but if a nem dies in a 10g thats the entire tank dead, in a larger tank theres less chance of them totally nuking the tank.
As for corals, you need test kits for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH, phosphate, magnesium, calcium, alkalinity and that's the basic test kits. You need to research the corals you want, so you know which lighting fixture you'll need and they get expensive fast, a decent one can run more then $200. If you want corals you also need a protein skimmer which can also get very expensive.
You could keep a single clownish in a 10g but thats really pushing it, their active fish that need 20-30g to be comfortable, IMHO I wouldn't even put one in a 10g. And a definite no to an anemone, they have no place in a 10g they need specialized care, and extremely stable tanks, and you just don't get that sort of stability in a 10g, plus the lighting needed for one causes algae galore unless you have RO water and watch parameters extremely carefully, but if a nem dies in a 10g thats the entire tank dead, in a larger tank theres less chance of them totally nuking the tank.
o.k avalon and koran thanks but i've been their many times about how much money will that up too and witch is an easy hardy cheap coral that i can geti don't want a nano reef but i do want a bit of coral or a maxima clam
“If all mankind were to disappear, the world would regenerate back to
the rich state of equilibrium that existed ten thousand years ago.
If insects were to vanish, the environment would collapse into Chaos"
-E.O. Wilson
the rich state of equilibrium that existed ten thousand years ago.
If insects were to vanish, the environment would collapse into Chaos"
-E.O. Wilson
-
Guest
You need to do research, are you aware about how much this will cost you? I run nano marine tanks (not even reefs) and they cost a lot, the salt, tanks maintenance all take time, plus the test kits. Even buying second hand things a 10g in which you keep even one coral is going to run somewhere into the 300-400 range, when you factor in the light (a second hand at $100), test kits ($50-100), Liverock (5-10 a lb, so $50-100), Skimmer ($50-100), powerheads ($20-40), heater ($10-30).
A maxima clam is no more appropriate for a 10g then an anemone is, those things suck calcium and alk big time, you'd never be able to keep the tank stable with such a small amount of water.
IF you get decent lighting, generally at least 50w of T5 HO lighting or Compact Fluorescent lighting, you could get away with corals like mushrooms, leathers and zoanthids, just remember the more colorful a coral is the more light it'll need.
How old are you? I'm 16 and getting my marine tanks involved lengthy negotiations with my parents, even though I paid for the tanks and equipment (for my three nanos, one a reef, one with just fish and one a coral propagation tank, none over 10g) it cost me well over a grand, probably closer to two grand, and that was just initial set up. Then theres electricity bills etc as well, my hermit crab tank with its heat lamp sucks enough electricity without factoring in the lights and heaters on my marine tanks. Plus theres the fact that the tanks need to be checked daily and topped off with FW, if its not done the salinity rises and everything goes out of whack, so I need my parents to set up the drip line for top offs and to check that the critters are okay, which I couldn't do except my Mum is interested in them as well.
In another post you said your Mum wouldn't let you buy supplies for hermit crabs, why would she let you set up a marine tank?
Sorry I'm not trying to be harsh but marine tanks take a lot of time and money.
A maxima clam is no more appropriate for a 10g then an anemone is, those things suck calcium and alk big time, you'd never be able to keep the tank stable with such a small amount of water.
IF you get decent lighting, generally at least 50w of T5 HO lighting or Compact Fluorescent lighting, you could get away with corals like mushrooms, leathers and zoanthids, just remember the more colorful a coral is the more light it'll need.
How old are you? I'm 16 and getting my marine tanks involved lengthy negotiations with my parents, even though I paid for the tanks and equipment (for my three nanos, one a reef, one with just fish and one a coral propagation tank, none over 10g) it cost me well over a grand, probably closer to two grand, and that was just initial set up. Then theres electricity bills etc as well, my hermit crab tank with its heat lamp sucks enough electricity without factoring in the lights and heaters on my marine tanks. Plus theres the fact that the tanks need to be checked daily and topped off with FW, if its not done the salinity rises and everything goes out of whack, so I need my parents to set up the drip line for top offs and to check that the critters are okay, which I couldn't do except my Mum is interested in them as well.
In another post you said your Mum wouldn't let you buy supplies for hermit crabs, why would she let you set up a marine tank?
Sorry I'm not trying to be harsh but marine tanks take a lot of time and money.
yes but i convinced her nd she me yes me with my money by the stuff and before i even got here i sed i wanted a nano tank and i said i'll pay half and half but nevermind 
“If all mankind were to disappear, the world would regenerate back to
the rich state of equilibrium that existed ten thousand years ago.
If insects were to vanish, the environment would collapse into Chaos"
-E.O. Wilson
the rich state of equilibrium that existed ten thousand years ago.
If insects were to vanish, the environment would collapse into Chaos"
-E.O. Wilson
-
Guest
1st step be ready for a long and grueling journey of ups and downs, salt water soaked carpets, maintenance fees, and a empty bank account.
If your going for Fish and hermit crabs then a sponge on a power filter will work well enough. If you want corals you will need a major lighting upgrade (Power Compacts, T5, Metal Halide) regular fluorescent bulb won't cut it. Both corals and anemones need excellent water quality to prevent the overgrowth of algae on them and the stunting of their growth from the impurities in the water if using tap. Depending on the anemone you choose you will have to get the highest output of lighting for them to survive. Your tank would also need to be established for at least 1yr for the anemone to even have a chance of long term survival. Both corals and anemones may need to be spot feed with small particulate foods some corals just need the higher out put lighting.
List of things you will need
1. Aquarium (For your 10gal that would be considered a NANO tank setup. If you intend on keeping the tank long term then I would say go bigger at least 40+. Less chance of a larger tank crashing from too high/low salinity, unrecoverable dead bodies, and other water complications. Also if going bigger look for a Reef Ready tank that way all your equipment will sit inside a sump located under your tank stand.)
2. Salt Mix (Instant Ocean/Reef Crystals and Other Brands)
3. Power Head (Salt mixer or Wave Maker in tank)
4. Mixing container (20gal Trash Bin/5gal bucket)
5. Test Kits (basics ammonia,nitrite,nitrate, others if going reef)
6. Hydrometer (To test Specific Gravity)
7. Heater (Ideal reef temps are 79 to 82 degrees)
8. Mechanical, chemical, and biological filtration
9. Substrate (aragonite sand or crushed coral 1lb per gallon, also will provide biological filtration when seeded with LiveSand or LiveRock)
10. Live Rock (If using then 1lb per gallon, also will provide biological filtration)
11. Protein skimmer (optional but will help to remove organic waste and provide oxygenation)
12. RO/DI water filtration unit (must have)
When setting up the tank initially, mix the salt water in a rinsed separate container, plastic 5gal bucket or 20gal trash can work great. If not using RO water make sure to de-chlorinate before adding salt. Once salt is added make sure to thoroughly mix a PowerHead will help speed up this process. Let the salt mix sit with powerhead or air bubbler for 24hrs for it to get oxygenated. Check specific gravity you will want it at 1.026ppm for normal reef conditions. Keep water temp at range of 79 to 82.
Add substrate if using dry aragonite sand or crushed coral then you will want to rinse it a few times or it will create a sand storm/milky water in the tank. If using a bag of Live Sand then just pour it in. Aquascape your LR or dead rock to your preference and add salt water mix.
If Live Rock was bought uncured then let the tank cycle for at least 6 or more months. If Live Rock was bought cured then 2 months should be sufficient. You can add a cheap damsel fish to help start the cycling process. You want the water to have no traces or low traces of ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate before adding any livestock. Just have your local fish store test it for you if its free or cheap.
If using a damsel fish to cycle then you will want to remove it because depending on the species they are very aggressive little buggers.
When tank is cycled add livestock slowly a few things every 2 weeks to let the bio-bacteria adjust to the new additions.
If your fish get sick from ich or other illnesses make sure you don't use Copper or else you will kill your corals and inverts.
Keeping salt water fish/invert tank is easier. But when you get into corals and anemones then its a whole new ball game. I may have missed something but hopefully this helps. I've only been keeping my reef for 2yrs so I'm still learning.
If your going for Fish and hermit crabs then a sponge on a power filter will work well enough. If you want corals you will need a major lighting upgrade (Power Compacts, T5, Metal Halide) regular fluorescent bulb won't cut it. Both corals and anemones need excellent water quality to prevent the overgrowth of algae on them and the stunting of their growth from the impurities in the water if using tap. Depending on the anemone you choose you will have to get the highest output of lighting for them to survive. Your tank would also need to be established for at least 1yr for the anemone to even have a chance of long term survival. Both corals and anemones may need to be spot feed with small particulate foods some corals just need the higher out put lighting.
List of things you will need
1. Aquarium (For your 10gal that would be considered a NANO tank setup. If you intend on keeping the tank long term then I would say go bigger at least 40+. Less chance of a larger tank crashing from too high/low salinity, unrecoverable dead bodies, and other water complications. Also if going bigger look for a Reef Ready tank that way all your equipment will sit inside a sump located under your tank stand.)
2. Salt Mix (Instant Ocean/Reef Crystals and Other Brands)
3. Power Head (Salt mixer or Wave Maker in tank)
4. Mixing container (20gal Trash Bin/5gal bucket)
5. Test Kits (basics ammonia,nitrite,nitrate, others if going reef)
6. Hydrometer (To test Specific Gravity)
7. Heater (Ideal reef temps are 79 to 82 degrees)
8. Mechanical, chemical, and biological filtration
9. Substrate (aragonite sand or crushed coral 1lb per gallon, also will provide biological filtration when seeded with LiveSand or LiveRock)
10. Live Rock (If using then 1lb per gallon, also will provide biological filtration)
11. Protein skimmer (optional but will help to remove organic waste and provide oxygenation)
12. RO/DI water filtration unit (must have)
When setting up the tank initially, mix the salt water in a rinsed separate container, plastic 5gal bucket or 20gal trash can work great. If not using RO water make sure to de-chlorinate before adding salt. Once salt is added make sure to thoroughly mix a PowerHead will help speed up this process. Let the salt mix sit with powerhead or air bubbler for 24hrs for it to get oxygenated. Check specific gravity you will want it at 1.026ppm for normal reef conditions. Keep water temp at range of 79 to 82.
Add substrate if using dry aragonite sand or crushed coral then you will want to rinse it a few times or it will create a sand storm/milky water in the tank. If using a bag of Live Sand then just pour it in. Aquascape your LR or dead rock to your preference and add salt water mix.
If Live Rock was bought uncured then let the tank cycle for at least 6 or more months. If Live Rock was bought cured then 2 months should be sufficient. You can add a cheap damsel fish to help start the cycling process. You want the water to have no traces or low traces of ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate before adding any livestock. Just have your local fish store test it for you if its free or cheap.
If using a damsel fish to cycle then you will want to remove it because depending on the species they are very aggressive little buggers.
When tank is cycled add livestock slowly a few things every 2 weeks to let the bio-bacteria adjust to the new additions.
If your fish get sick from ich or other illnesses make sure you don't use Copper or else you will kill your corals and inverts.
Keeping salt water fish/invert tank is easier. But when you get into corals and anemones then its a whole new ball game. I may have missed something but hopefully this helps. I've only been keeping my reef for 2yrs so I'm still learning.
Last edited by Guest on Tue Aug 05, 2008 10:01 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Guest
The above info is good, but just want to say please don't use a damsel to cycle, its cruel and you put the fish through unneeded stress and it can potentially kill the fish. Rather get some raw shrimp from the supermarket, place in pantyhose and put in tank, as the shrimp decomposes the tank will cycle. I'd also advise actually buying test kits rather then using your local pet store they're well known for just telling you ammonia is safe even though it might be reading at 1.0