started buying for my marine tank, would like input

For discussion and photos of all of the non-hermit crab pets we hold dear, including other crab species.
Locked
User avatar

Topic author
annopia
Posts: 786
Joined: Thu May 04, 2006 9:49 pm
Location: Washington DC

started buying for my marine tank, would like input

Post by annopia » Thu Aug 07, 2008 9:15 pm

With some of the birthday money I got I started to buy some of the things I thought I wanted/needed for setting up my marine tank. I would love some feedback if anyone has ever used any of these products with/without success in their tanks.

fake and real coral for climings, the one farthest to the right is real, the other two aren't:

Image

ceramic hollow logs for hiding:

Image

fake plants for hiding, all saltwater safe:

Image

a couple foods i've bought:

Image

the filter I bought and some refill cartridges. do i still need an under substrate filter and/or a tube for aeration:

Image

the hydrometers (one for the tank, the other for testin new water) and the test strips-i had no idea what i needed, so i kinda picked one:

Image

I'd love to hear of others experience...

Caroline
26 LHC: 6 PPs, 5 Es, 1 Straw, 6 Ruggies, 2 Indos, 1 Blueberry, 4 Violas, 1 Aussie


Guest

Post by Guest » Thu Aug 07, 2008 10:03 pm

What sort of marine tank are you planning on? I'm guessing considering the purchases a small tank specifically for marine hermit crabs?

Are you planning on fish?

Some suggestions-
Use sand designed for marine aquariums, beach sand, crushed coral or similar, pet stores should sell it, it should help with providing a stable pH for inverts.

Add some live rock, if its just a small fish and hermits in a small tank (under 20g) you can get away with just a small amount but it does really help with filtration and will also provide something natural for hermits to pick over. If your on a budget even just a few pounds of live rock would help, though keep in mind you'd have to keep a light bioload and keep up with water changes.

The test strips you bought don't like they'll be very helpful, they ahve an african cichlid on the front, so are probably fresh water. What you need are saltwater liquid kits (not strips, they aren't very reliable) If your just keeping fish you need ammonia, nitrite, nitrate and high range pH, I'd suggest the API Saltwater Master Test kit, decent test kits, they last for a while and are fairly well priced. I'm not actually sure if hermit crabs require stable calcium levels as theres barely any info on them but I'm guessing they probably would so a calcium and an alkalinity test kit would also be helpful though not necessary.

As for the filter its a HOB (Hang on the Back) filter, I can't see how many g/ph (or l/ph if your aussie) it does but it needs to be rated for ten times the size of the tank, ie if your tank is 10g, it needs to do 100g/ph. If it isn't rated for ten times the tank size, you can still use it but you'll need to buy extra powerheads, which are just pumps to make up the rest of the turn over, the more movement the better the ocean is a very turbulent place.

The rest looks good though, I like the fake coral and plants, too many people refuse to use them because they look 'tacky' but when done correctly you can make em look awesome.

I hope that helps, lemme know if you have any other questions, though I can't help on MHC's specific care, I've never kept one before, though I've kept other species of crabs, I'm more into the fish and corals, though I will be getting some MHC's soon.

User avatar

Topic author
annopia
Posts: 786
Joined: Thu May 04, 2006 9:49 pm
Location: Washington DC

Post by annopia » Fri Aug 08, 2008 7:33 am

thank you for the feedback!

yes, i am setting up a hermit crab only marine tank, a 10 gallon . i've read everywhere that the smaller tanks are much harder to maintain, but space is an issue in my apartment.

for the substrate i was planning on getting argonite-does that fall into those categories? i will have live rock in there for them.

okay, will try to find and order the API master test kit.

the HOB filter is only rated for 20 g, i had no idea about the 10x thing. what are extra powerheads and how many do i need?

how long does the tank need to be cycled before the hermits can be added? my reading suggests a wide range of things, from "add them right away they will help stabilize levels" to "wait a month." i know for fish you usually need to wait a month, but ive read that the invertibrates are a bit different.

also, i know you havent kept MHC, but i was wondering if you had heard anything about their molting? some sources i read says to just leave them to do it, another says isolate them so they don't get attacked. if the later, then i was thinking about getting this:

[Link no longer works]

thank you!

Caroline
26 LHC: 6 PPs, 5 Es, 1 Straw, 6 Ruggies, 2 Indos, 1 Blueberry, 4 Violas, 1 Aussie


Guest

Post by Guest » Fri Aug 08, 2008 7:31 pm

A 10g is a fine tank, all the marine tanks I've kept have been nanos, they just need a bit more care and maintenance then a big tank.

Yup aragonite is a perfect sand to use.

Powerheads are basically internal filters without the actual filter part, their just pumps that circulate water, their are many different brands and sizes. To go with the HOB filter I would get two power heads that circulate 50g/ph each, the g/ph rating will be listed on the box, you should be able to pick them up fairly cheaply. You'll need to aim them at the liverock, or at any areas in the tank where dirt and muck collect once set up, your aiming to keep all the debris in the water so that the HOB filter picks it up.

Oh and while I'm on the topic of HOB filters what media are you using? Carbon, sponges and floss are fine, just make sure the cartridges don't have the ammonia reducing rocks in them, they do not react well with saltwater.

A lot of people don't register hermit crabs as living things and see a few deaths as nothing to worry about, hence the range of times you've found. My suggestion would be to first allow the tank to cycle. This will occur when you add the LR if its spent any amount of time out of water. Basically the ammonia will begin to rise, then slowly drop and the nitrite will rise and slowly drop, eventually leaving nitrate. This can take anywhere from a week to a month and you monitor it with a test kit. You can add living things a few days after ammonia and nitrite are both reading 0, I'd also recommend a 5g water change then as well, to bring the nitrate down. Though nitrate levels are nowhere near as toxic as ammonia or nitrite they can still be harmful and really need to be kept below 10ppm.

Also with water changes, the water must be premixed and preheated, you need an extra powerhead, size doesn't matter and a small heater, and you need to mix the saltwater at least a day before you use it, and heat it to the same temp as the water, I usually use 2.5g buckets to mix it, but you can also mix big batches and store it. The water changes themselves should equal 25% a month, so whether you do that by changing 25% once a month, or change 6% every week is up to you. Though the more water changes you do the better.

I'd say separate them when the molt, MHC's are a lot more predatory then LHC's that in tank Fuge looks good, but a bit expensive my suggestion would be to get a small container, remove the lid flip upside down puncture small holes all around it and add a weight on top, and just place over a hermit if you see them molting. Or one of those floating breeding traps for platies, guppies and mollies would do the trick as well and be much cheaper.

Oh one last thing, I didn't see a heater in that list of things you bought, if you haven't got one I'd get a 50w one just to ensure the temp stays stable.

User avatar

Topic author
annopia
Posts: 786
Joined: Thu May 04, 2006 9:49 pm
Location: Washington DC

Post by annopia » Fri Aug 08, 2008 9:06 pm

okay, was looking around, finding powerheads/heaters/test kits like you said, and i came across thing, which looks really neat and contains some of the stuff i need:

[Link no longer works]

i like it being all together....pros/cons of this? would i still have to get powerheads and heaters? obviously id still need to get the test kit.

Caroline
26 LHC: 6 PPs, 5 Es, 1 Straw, 6 Ruggies, 2 Indos, 1 Blueberry, 4 Violas, 1 Aussie


Guest

Post by Guest » Fri Aug 08, 2008 9:34 pm

The link you posted is just for a heater... Though that is the sort of heater you'd be after.

Or is this what you meant to refer to?
http://www.marinedepot.com/ps_AquariumP ... _nano.html

Most of the products there are good, you'd just need to pick and choose.

User avatar

Topic author
annopia
Posts: 786
Joined: Thu May 04, 2006 9:49 pm
Location: Washington DC

Post by annopia » Fri Aug 08, 2008 9:41 pm

sorry...i'll test out this link when i post it, heres the link:

http://www.marinedepot.com/ps_ViewItem~ ... QNCNT.html

it looks like it would fufill my needs for tank, lights, and perhaps filter. would i still need powerheads?

Caroline
26 LHC: 6 PPs, 5 Es, 1 Straw, 6 Ruggies, 2 Indos, 1 Blueberry, 4 Violas, 1 Aussie


Guest

Post by Guest » Sat Aug 09, 2008 1:21 am

That looks good, I can't find any site that lists its turnover rate.

This forum lists some modifications and observations on the tank, hope its okay to post it, it's a marine tank forum
http://www.nano-reef.com/forums/index.p ... opic=86788

The lighting would also allow you to keep some corals if you wanted to, and the skimmer it comes with would be very helpful. It's in built filtration will suffice as filtration for a hermit crab only tank and it seems like a decent little tank. I'd probably add just a single small powerhead as one pump will always cause at least one dead spot, but if you can afford that i'd say go for it.


Guest

Post by Guest » Sat Aug 09, 2008 7:00 am

http://current-usa.com/aquapods.html

160gph

If your really serious about keeping other things besides just MHC then that tank would be ok.

If you want to save money keep your current 10gal. The power filter you bought is rated 100gph which is sufficient. A basic heater will do.

As for power heads I would just get one to mix the salt water. Having one inside the tank will help with dead spots, but they also will whip your sand around depending on model/gph. I would just try to go barebones with not a lot of equipment hanging on or inside of the tank.

MHC don't dig to molt from what I've observed. Most times I'll just see the smaller ones jammed into a rock crevice. The larger ones in my tank sometimes just sit in plain view when molting.

When doing water changes if you notice detritus building up on the rock work or substrate then try to siphon out as much as you can. A turkey baster works good for getting junk out of the rockwork.

Also when going to purchase the MHC ask the employees if they could scoop you up a cup of substrate from one of their tanks. That will help seed your dead substrate with bacteria. You might get some cool hitchhikers too. If you can only get crushed coral to seed then place it into the tank in a seperate container so not to mix with your sand substrate.

User avatar

Topic author
annopia
Posts: 786
Joined: Thu May 04, 2006 9:49 pm
Location: Washington DC

Post by annopia » Sat Aug 09, 2008 10:55 am

thank you two both for your input! i just bought the aquapod tank :D . i'm so excited! i managed to get free shipping from also purchasing (as avalon-princess recommended) the API master test kit, two 50 W heaters, and a powerhead).

everything should be here sometime next week! then after i move on the 21st i can set the tank up (after buying substrate and water mix) and start cycling it.

Caroline
26 LHC: 6 PPs, 5 Es, 1 Straw, 6 Ruggies, 2 Indos, 1 Blueberry, 4 Violas, 1 Aussie


Guest

Post by Guest » Sun Aug 10, 2008 1:17 am

Sounds good, I've just finally got around to rearranging my tanks so I can keep some MHC's, though I cheated LOL, the tanks are already cycled so no waiting.

User avatar

Topic author
annopia
Posts: 786
Joined: Thu May 04, 2006 9:49 pm
Location: Washington DC

Post by annopia » Sun Aug 10, 2008 9:14 am

what types of MHCs can you get in Australia? I imagine only the native ones, like for LHCs, due to the strict import/export laws. I'm planning on starting with some Clibanarus Tricolor (blue-legged), Paguristes Cadenati (scarlett), Clibanarius Seurati and Clibanarius Vittatus (the last two are both black and white stripped, one vertical, the other not).

Caroline
26 LHC: 6 PPs, 5 Es, 1 Straw, 6 Ruggies, 2 Indos, 1 Blueberry, 4 Violas, 1 Aussie

Locked