HCA: Hermit Crab Association

Hi there, I haven't been able to find much information to help me browsing the internet and so this is a desperate attempt to figure my situation out and any advice would be greatly appreciated. Today being Saturday, the previous Monday I brought home my science teacher's hermit crabs. They have been living in this terrarium for over a year now, but I quickly discovered by doing some research that their living conditions were not quite favourable. There is not enough sand or substrate for burrowing and molting, how ever there is a mound of coconut fibre about 2" high. It contains fish and salt water, a food dish and hiding places, which is good. But the tank has a mesh top and I have yet to get some Plexiglas for it because the heat lamp keeps drying everything out. Keep in mind they have lived fine for the past year or so with this little humidity, but I know I need to make a lot of changed to their habitat. I mist the tank 1-2 times per day.
I apologize for rambling but I thought this may be useful background information. My problem is that Monday evening when I brought them home both crabs were active, and came out of their shells and explored, Tuesday the smaller of the two was just as active, but the slight y bigger one (maybe 2.5") seemed nervous and would not come out of his shell. I tried picking him up but he just got hid farther in his shell which I've never seen him to before, as I had cared for them daily in the classroom. I quickly put him back down as to not stress him out too much and he buried himself to the bottom of the tank in the coconut fibre. Since there isn't enough substrate the top of his shell was still exposed. Since then he has not moved. Has not come out at night for food or water. Nothing, and it's worrisome because the conditions don't seem exactly favourable for molting. Yesterday I went to a pet store and explained the situation and asked for advice, they told me that they really had no idea but to pick him up and just see if its dead, and I would be able to tell because his "trap door" won't be closed. As well I mentioned it didn't smell of rotten fish or remotely salty and they told me that it wouldn't smell like that because they dry up so fast. So I went home and got my mother to pick him up out of the tank (I am very bad with dead pets unfortunately) and we didn't see anything and I assumed he had actually crawled out of his shell to molt and I was very happy. Later on I decided to double check so I picked up the shell again, and on closer inspection it appeared to be a shrunken hermit crab inside, but his "trap door" was firmly shut. Is he alive or did he already die and dry up and it's just a coincidence that he didn't become limp? I'm very distressed about this so I apologize again for the long topic.

Hello and welcome to the HCA! Sorry that you had to join us on such a bad situation. Unfortunately, I'm a new crabber and I can help little but for more experienced crabbers to be able to tell you more what to do, you should fill out the help template. It takes a while but it's worth it. Here's the link:
http://hermitcrabassociation.com/phpBB/ ... 27&t=46102

Sounds like he's molting. Was there an exo nearby?? He needs this to get some much needed nutrition back. If you haven't already done so, he needs to ISO'd so that the other one doesn't get to him. You can use a 2 liter bottle with bottom cut off and cap off for ventilation. Push it down around him. Provide him with calcium, honey, and caps of FW and MSW, and the exo if there is one.

In the future NEVER dig up a crab! This can cause further stress and even death. They can and will bury for 3+ months with no problems.

You mentioned the top being a mesh lid. You can put seran wrap, tin foil, or a towel on top to trap heat and humidity. Also need some guages. Digital are better than analog. Temp minimum of 80. Humidity minimum of 80.

Please fill out the help template (linked above) so we can see the tat's conditions and better assist you. Just copy and paste questions and your answers here so that it stays together.



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1. What kind of substrate is used in your tank and how deep is it?

About 1 cm of sand and 2" of coconut fibre in a mound in one side of the tank

2. Do you have gauges in the tank to measure temperature and humidity? If so, where are they located and what temperature and humidity do they usually read?

Not gauge for humidity yet but will be my next purchase, the temperature strip on the side reads 75 with the heat source on. Possibly I should get a second heat source?

3. Is a heat source used in the tank? If so, what?

A dome heat lamp placed on the top of the tank

4. What types of water are available (fresh or salt) and how is the water treated (what brands of dechlorinator or salt mix and what ratio is used to mix it)?

Freshwater dish dechlorinated with ZooMed reptile water conditioner, 2 drops per 8 ounces. Saltwater conditioned the same way, with All Living Things soaking salt added at a ratio of 1 tsp: 1 cup.

5. What kinds of food do you feed and how often is it replaced?

All Living Things hermit crab variety diet containing powder and bring shrimp. Often I will add calcium powder.

6. How long have you had the crab and what species is it, if known?

Previous owner had in this exact setup for over a year in a classroom setting, I have had them for 6 days now. All I know is that they are purple claw land hermit crabs

7. Has your crab molted, and how long ago did it happen?

I have never witnessed either crab molt

8. What type of housing are the crabs kept in, what size is it and what kind of lid is on the housing?

10 gallon tank with mesh lid, looking for Plexiglas, now going to substitute with tin foil until I am able to pick some up

9. How many crabs are in the tank and about how large are they?

One 1" crab, one 2" crab. The 2" is the crab in question.

10. How many extra shells are usually kept in the tank, if any?

7 extra shells are present

11. Have there been any fumes or chemicals near the crabitat recently?

None

12. How often do you clean the tank and how?

While in the classroom I would care for them daily and clean the tank every 3 or 4 months. I would remove all substrate, wipe the glass, and thoroughly rinse the water dishes and hideaways. Replace with the same amount of substrate, as provided by my teacher.

13. Are sponges used in the water dish? If so, how are they cleaned?

There is an organic sponge in each dish, I would rinse the sponges in water and squeeze all excess water out so as not to contaminate their water with chlorinated water

14. Has anything new been added to your crabitat recently?

Nothing yet

15. Is there any other information you would like to share that might be helpful (anything that is regularly part of your crab care, playtime, bathing, etc.)?

16. Please describe the emergency situation in detail.

I believe I explained the situation quite clearly in my
primary post, as well as anything I would add to question 15

daws409 wrote:Sounds like he's molting. Was there an exo nearby?? He needs this to get some much needed nutrition back. If you haven't already done so, he needs to ISO'd so that the other one doesn't get to him. You can use a 2 liter bottle with bottom cut off and cap off for ventilation. Push it down around him. Provide him with calcium, honey, and caps of FW and MSW, and the exo if there is one.

In the future NEVER dig up a crab! This can cause further stress and even death. They can and will bury for 3+ months with no problems.

You mentioned the top being a mesh lid. You can put seran wrap, tin foil, or a towel on top to trap heat and humidity. Also need some guages. Digital are better than analog. Temp minimum of 80. Humidity minimum of 80.

Please fill out the help template (linked above) so we can see the tat's conditions and better assist you. Just copy and paste questions and your answers here so that it stays together.



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Thank you for your help. I originally thought he might be molting however I was unsure if he went into the process due to the conditions being not as favourable as I soon realized. I have done monumental amounts of research since I brought these critters home and I soon found out their previous owner really had no clue what needed to be done. I hope I can reverse this and both crabs will make it. I will take your advice on the pop bottle isolation method. Something that made me nervous was that the crab seemed to have reduced in size to about 1/3 of what he used to be. I noticed his claw covering him had been white which I read is the colour they turn to before shedding their exoskeleton, however I found nothing about them shrinking in size inside their shell so I was/am still worried he dried up in there. Any more tips or helpful insights would. be greatly appreciated

When they molt they turn white after there exo is shed. Then as their exo hardens back up they will grow back to their previous size and more often then not even bigger. They will also darken in color and return to their purple and reds. The salt you are using is not what they need. They need a marine grade salt such as instant ocean. They also need a large variety of fresh foods and they need a constant source of calcium. They need a minimum 80 temp and 80 humidity. Sponges need ro be removed from the water bowl as they harbor bacteria that is not good for the crabs and once you get the tank set up to proper conditions you should never change the substrate. It provides beneficial bacteria just clean up poop that you can see and food they have dragged away and you will be good. It is recommended you have six inches or three times your largest crab deep substrate. Make sure you use play sand not the calcium sand. It needs to be at sand castle consistency and if you get calcium sand wet it will harden like cement. I think that's all but if I missed anything hopefully a more experienced crabber will point it out.

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NLindsey921 wrote:When they molt they turn white after there exo is shed. Then as their exo hardens back up they will grow back to their previous size and more often then not even bigger. They will also darken in color and return to their purple and reds. The salt you are using is not what they need. They need a marine grade salt such as instant ocean. They also need a large variety of fresh foods and they need a constant source of calcium. They need a minimum 80 temp and 80 humidity. Sponges need ro be removed from the water bowl as they harbor bacteria that is not good for the crabs and once you get the tank set up to proper conditions you should never change the substrate. It provides beneficial bacteria just clean up poop that you can see and food they have dragged away and you will be good. It is recommended you have six inches or three times your largest crab deep substrate. Make sure you use play sand not the calcium sand. It needs to be at sand castle consistency and if you get calcium sand wet it will harden like cement. I think that's all but if I missed anything hopefully a more experienced crabber will point it out.

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Thank you very much I will take you advice and make adequate changes after the little guy has completed his stressful change. I am just curious if anyone knows of a crab shedding it's skin while in the same shell it's always been in or if they will climb back into the old shell for protection

I've only ever witnessed one molt and it was a surface molt. Mine was bad though because he went naked to do it then didn't have the energy or mobility to get back into the shell but normally they stay in their shell to molt.

Edit: when you have the proper set up all molts should happen under the substrate. They can take a while but never dig them up. Doing that could cause more harm. And stress during an already stressful time.

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I answered all with a D -

1. What kind of substrate is used in your tank and how deep is it?
About 1 cm of sand and 2" of coconut fibre in a mound in one side of the tank

D- you can use ee (eco earth), play sand or a combo of both. Most use a 5:1 ratio (sand:ee). Don't use calcium sand as this can harden like cement when wet. EE should look similar to coffee grinds. You'll want a minimum of 6 inches or 3 times your largest crab. Whichever is greater.

2. Do you have gauges in the tank to measure temperature and humidity? If so, where are they located and what temperature and humidity do they usually read?
Not gauge for humidity yet but will be my next purchase, the temperature strip on the side reads 75 with the heat source on. Possibly I should get a second heat source?

D- you'll need actual guages, not strips. they're for a water (fish) tank. Digital is better than analog. You can get a digital at Wal-Mart or hardware store for under $10. Make sure you calibrate them for accuracy. Temp minimum of 80. Humidity minimum of 80.

3. Is a heat source used in the tank? If so, what?
A dome heat lamp placed on the top of the tank

D- remember lamps can zap humidity. Some have used them with no problems. You can also get an UTH (ultratherm heater or under tank heater). Get the largest that will fit along the back and ABOVE the sub. ReptileBasics.com is best place to look.

4. What types of water are available (fresh or salt) and how is the water treated (what brands of dechlorinator or salt mix and what ratio is used to mix it)?
Freshwater dish dechlorinated with ZooMed reptile water conditioner, 2 drops per 8 ounces. Saltwater conditioned the same way, with All Living Things soaking salt added at a ratio of 1 tsp: 1 cup.

D- most things marketed for them are actually bad for them. You'll want to use prime for your dechlorinator. And use marine grade salt such as instant ocean. Use prime to treat both fresh and salt. Best to prepare gallon jugs at a time so you'll always have extra water on hand. Your water dishes also need to be deep enough for them to fully submerge. You can use vines, cholla wood, or plastic canvas as ramps. Doubled up Tupperware is a cheap alternative. First bowl buried in the sub with layer of pebbles or marbles in the bottom. Second bowl sits inside the first and holds the water.

5. What kinds of food do you feed and how often is it replaced?
All Living Things hermit crab variety diet containing powder and bring shrimp. Often I will add calcium powder.

D- again, most things marketed for them are actually bad for them. Protein- crickets, mealworms, bloodworms, krill, shrimp. Calcium- sea urchins, cuttlebone, egg shell, sand dollar.... ALWAYS offer plenty protein sources, calcium, leaf litter, and bark. The rest can be a variety of fruits and veges. Check food safe list before offering (sorry don't know how to post links). Make sure to change fresh foods daily or every other day.

6. How long have you had the crab and what species is it, if known?
Previous owner had in this exact setup for over a year in a classroom setting, I have had them for 6 days now. All I know is that they are purple claw land hermit crabs

7. Has your crab molted, and how long ago did it happen?
I have never witnessed either crab molt

8. What type of housing are the crabs kept in, what size is it and what kind of lid is on the housing?
10 gallon tank with mesh lid, looking for Plexiglas, now going to substitute with tin foil until I am able to pick some up

D- 10 gal is the minimum for crabs. You can make your tank bigger by adding second levels (moss pitt, shell shop). I would start looking for a bigger tank for growing/roaming room. You do have a while before needing to upgrade tho. Just a thought. Petco sometimes has dollar/gallon sales. Also check newspapers and craigslist.... Remember to leave some room (gaps) on the mesh top for airflow.

9. How many crabs are in the tank and about how large are they?
One 1" crab, one 2" crab. The 2" is the crab in question.

10. How many extra shells are usually kept in the tank, if any?
7 extra shells are present

D- you'll want a minimum of 3 shells per crab ranging in sizes and their preferred type. Natural shells of course. More is better however.

11. Have there been any fumes or chemicals near the crabitat recently?
None

12. How often do you clean the tank and how?
While in the classroom I would care for them daily and clean the tank every 3 or 4 months. I would remove all substrate, wipe the glass, and thoroughly rinse the water dishes and hideaways. Replace with the same amount of substrate, as provided by my teacher.

D- the only cleaning that should be done is cleaning the poop or any drug away food. Removing all the sub takes away the beneficial bacteria. Deep cleaning is only done in an emergency such as flood or bacteria bloom.

13. Are sponges used in the water dish? If so, how are they cleaned?
There is an organic sponge in each dish, I would rinse the sponges in water and squeeze all excess water out so as not to contaminate their water with chlorinated water

D- toss the sponges. They're awful for hoarding bacteria. You can have natural sponges for them to munch on, just not in the water.

14. Has anything new been added to your crabitat recently?
Nothing yet

15. Is there any other information you would like to share that might be helpful (anything that is regularly part of your crab care, playtime, bathing, etc.)?

16. Please describe the emergency situation in detail.
I believe I explained the situation quite clearly in my
primary post, as well as anything I would add to question 15


Again, I answered everything with a D-. I know this is a lot of information to process but your crabbies will thank you later. Wish you the best of luck and hope your little guy pulls through.

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I added to Daws post, it never hurts to reread info

1. What kind of substrate is used in your tank and how deep is it?
About 1 cm of sand and 2" of coconut fibre in a mound in one side of the tank

D- you can use ee (eco earth), play sand or a combo of both. Most use a 5:1 ratio (sand:ee). Don't use calcium sand as this can harden like cement when wet. EE should look similar to coffee grinds. You'll want a minimum of 6 inches or 3 times your largest crab. Whichever is greater.

GB: I would like to add that you need to mix this with dechlorinated marine saltwater so that it is sandcastle consistency.

2. Do you have gauges in the tank to measure temperature and humidity? If so, where are they located and what temperature and humidity do they usually read?
Not gauge for humidity yet but will be my next purchase, the temperature strip on the side reads 75 with the heat source on. Possibly I should get a second heat source?

D- you'll need actual guages, not strips. they're for a water (fish) tank. Digital is better than analog. You can get a digital at Wal-Mart or hardware store for under $10. Make sure you calibrate them for accuracy. Temp minimum of 80. Humidity minimum of 80.

GB: Here is a good one https://www.walmart.com/ip/16888914?wml ... 3=&veh=sem

3. Is a heat source used in the tank? If so, what?
A dome heat lamp placed on the top of the tank

D- remember lamps can zap humidity. Some have used them with no problems. You can also get an UTH (ultratherm heater or under tank heater). Get the largest that will fit along the back and ABOVE the sub. ReptileBasics.com is best place to look.

GB: www.reptilebasics.com These can also be insulated during the winter months. Zoomed ones cannot not be, and in my opinion do not do a good job heating up the tank.

4. What types of water are available (fresh or salt) and how is the water treated (what brands of dechlorinator or salt mix and what ratio is used to mix it)?
Freshwater dish dechlorinated with ZooMed reptile water conditioner, 2 drops per 8 ounces. Saltwater conditioned the same way, with All Living Things soaking salt added at a ratio of 1 tsp: 1 cup.

D- most things marketed for them are actually bad for them. You'll want to use prime for your dechlorinator. And use marine grade salt such as instant ocean. Use prime to treat both fresh and salt. Best to prepare gallon jugs at a time so you'll always have extra water on hand. Your water dishes also need to be deep enough for them to fully submerge. You can use vines, cholla wood, or plastic canvas as ramps. Doubled up Tupperware is a cheap alternative. First bowl buried in the sub with layer of pebbles or marbles in the bottom. Second bowl sits inside the first and holds the water.

5. What kinds of food do you feed and how often is it replaced?
All Living Things hermit crab variety diet containing powder and bring shrimp. Often I will add calcium powder.

D- again, most things marketed for them are actually bad for them. Protein- crickets, mealworms, bloodworms, krill, shrimp. Calcium- sea urchins, cuttlebone, egg shell, sand dollar.... ALWAYS offer plenty protein sources, calcium, leaf litter, and bark. The rest can be a variety of fruits and veges. Check food safe list before offering (sorry don't know how to post links). Make sure to change fresh foods daily or every other day.

GB: Luckily, the food you are feeding is a safe one You are okay with that one.
Here is a safe food list. http://hermitcrabassociation.com/phpBB/ ... 25&t=92557
Here is the commercial food list: http://hermitcrabassociation.com/phpBB/ ... 25&t=92555

6. How long have you had the crab and what species is it, if known?
Previous owner had in this exact setup for over a year in a classroom setting, I have had them for 6 days now. All I know is that they are purple claw land hermit crabs

GB: Purple Pincher Care Sheet: http://hermitcrabassociation.com/phpBB/ ... 51&t=92452

7. Has your crab molted, and how long ago did it happen?
I have never witnessed either crab molt

8. What type of housing are the crabs kept in, what size is it and what kind of lid is on the housing?
10 gallon tank with mesh lid, looking for Plexiglas, now going to substitute with tin foil until I am able to pick some up

D- 10 gal is the minimum for crabs. You can make your tank bigger by adding second levels (moss pitt, shell shop). I would start looking for a bigger tank for growing/roaming room. You do have a while before needing to upgrade tho. Just a thought. Petco sometimes has dollar/gallon sales. Also check newspapers and craigslist.... Remember to leave some room (gaps) on the mesh top for airflow.

GB: Petco has sale going on now until Feb 1st. $1/gallon. I recommend 5 gallons per crab. I would not recommend plexiglass with a light as your heat. It will melt the plexiglass.

9. How many crabs are in the tank and about how large are they?
One 1" crab, one 2" crab. The 2" is the crab in question.

10. How many extra shells are usually kept in the tank, if any?
7 extra shells are present

D- you'll want a minimum of 3 shells per crab ranging in sizes and their preferred type. Natural shells of course. More is better however.

GB: The HCA recommends 3-5 shells per crab, however I recommend more. Here is the shell guide. There are incorrect shells to buy, especially at the store. http://hermitcrabassociation.com/phpBB/ ... 24&t=92552

11. Have there been any fumes or chemicals near the crabitat recently?
None

12. How often do you clean the tank and how?
While in the classroom I would care for them daily and clean the tank every 3 or 4 months. I would remove all substrate, wipe the glass, and thoroughly rinse the water dishes and hideaways. Replace with the same amount of substrate, as provided by my teacher.

D- the only cleaning that should be done is cleaning the poop or any drug away food. Removing all the sub takes away the beneficial bacteria. Deep cleaning is only done in an emergency such as flood or bacteria bloom.

13. Are sponges used in the water dish? If so, how are they cleaned?
There is an organic sponge in each dish, I would rinse the sponges in water and squeeze all excess water out so as not to contaminate their water with chlorinated water

D- toss the sponges. They're awful for hoarding bacteria. You can have natural sponges for them to munch on, just not in the water.

14. Has anything new been added to your crabitat recently?
Nothing yet

15. Is there any other information you would like to share that might be helpful (anything that is regularly part of your crab care, playtime, bathing, etc.)?

16. Please describe the emergency situation in detail.
I believe I explained the situation quite clearly in my
primary post, as well as anything I would add to question 15


I answered with GB for GotButterflies

daws409 wrote:Sounds like he's molting. Was there an exo nearby?? He needs this to get some much needed nutrition back. If you haven't already done so, he needs to ISO'd so that the other one doesn't get to him. You can use a 2 liter bottle with bottom cut off and cap off for ventilation. Push it down around him. Provide him with calcium, honey, and caps of FW and MSW, and the exo if there is one.

In the future NEVER dig up a crab! This can cause further stress and even death. They can and will bury for 3+ months with no problems.

You mentioned the top being a mesh lid. You can put seran wrap, tin foil, or a towel on top to trap heat and humidity. Also need some guages. Digital are better than analog. Temp minimum of 80. Humidity minimum of 80.

Please fill out the help template (linked above) so we can see the tat's conditions and better assist you. Just copy and paste questions and your answers here so that it stays together.



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Honey needs to be RAW ORGANIC HONEY. Calcium: cuttlebone, calcium carbonate, eggshells-crushed, Protein: crickets, grasshoppers, mealworms, shrimp - all best if ground up with a coffee grinder or mortar and pestle

I'm glad some other crabbers chimed in. Make sure to keep us updated!

Hi there just thought I'd thank everyone for their help and support. The little guy made it through and today I got the joy of seeing him out of his shell and just sitting there in the ISO tank all molted with his natural colour returned and his antenna moving about. I can't imagine how stressful it must be for these small creatures to molt like that, but I sure know that when he sprang this on me the second day of coming home with me it really gave me some stress. Anyways I am just glad he's safe and healthy and I can now focus on improving his environment to give him a happy healthy rest of his life.

That's great! I'm so happy your little guy is improving. However, in order for them to thrive, you need to work on improving their tat which sounds like you're getting ready to start. Remember, we're all here to help. Happy crabbing!

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Yeah! So glad to hear that! Thanks for letting us know!