HCA: Hermit Crab Association

I'm planning on getting Leopard Geckos, I have prepared a difficult list for shopping.
My plan is this, tell me if I need to make updates to it.

SHOPPING LIST

https://www.amazon.com/Flukers-Repta-Vi ... r+reptiles
https://www.amazon.com/Exo-Terra-Terrar ... uscus&th=1
https://www.amazon.com/Exo-Terra-Feedin ... +food+dish
https://www.amazon.com/Exo-Terra-Water- ... GB2SY&th=1
https://www.amazon.com/Pack-Zoo-Med-Ear ... on_scf_0_1
Driftwood from LFS
20g long Empty Glass Tank

Only other things that I'm not aware of are things I need recommendations on.
What are the best hides you guys recommend?

I know I need 3 hides, 2 hot hides, and 1 moist hide.
I'm not finding any that I really like.

Also, do they need a heat lamp? I don't really know, but I think they don't.
But, I heard they needed a white UV light, any recommendations on that?

Thanks for any help!
- leopardgeckos

I forgot to add this information above.
The diet of my leopard gecko is going to be this.

Please let me know if there is any other insects they will eat.
FOOD LIST

Mealworms
Crickets

TREATS

Waxworms
Superworms

I will dust these insects in D3 Vitamin Dust.
Is this one good?
https://www.chewy.com/flukers-calcium-v ... lsrc=aw.ds

There are some great gecko only forums and general reptile forums out there that can guide you better than a hermit forum.

I have 10 leos, so I can certainly help with the basics!

First of all, loose substrate is not recommended as they tend to eat mouthfuls while catching insects and that can bind them up solid and kill them. Some people use linoleum, I really like tile myself (stone or ceramic) as it is heat resistant and has texture for them to wear their nails down. Another option is Excavator Clay but it has to be kept bone dry as when it is even the least bit wet it sticks to them like wet clay.

They do need some sort of heat source as their tank should be around 80 and their basking spot should be around 90. They are desert animals and low temps harm them. Without proper basking temps they do not digest food correctly, which kills them. There is debate over wether a light or a UTH is better, but either should be used with a thermostat that has a probe as burns are extremely common. I have UTH for all of my reptiles as I find them to be safer and the room is heated to just about 80 so I don't have to worry about ambient temp.

They need a hot hide, a cool hide and a moist hide. Hot should be at basking temps, cool should be a little below 80. Moist hide can be anywhere in between so long as they use it.

They do not swim so they do not need a huge bowl. I use small and medium as they only drink from it. Save the space for other decor and room to move.

UVB is still debated. US keepers and breeders say there is no need, UK and European keepers recommend it, along with US reptile rescues. Metabolic Bone Disease is extremely common in leos and a UVB light will prevent this if the supplements fail or aren't dosed properly. My 7 rescues all have various stages of MBD from mild (recovered with no signs) to severe (broken legs and flattened ribs) so this hits close to home for me and I personally recommend it if you can afford it.

As for diet I do mostly superworms and hornworms, with the occasional cricket. Waxworms you may want to stay away from as they are like candy to them and they may refuse to eat anything else after getting a taste. Wax are high in fat and low in nutrition so they are not a staple diet. They also love roaches.

Yes, you do need a good calcium supplement with D3. You should also use a reptile vitamin two to four times a month to make sure.they aren't lacking anything.

Pardon the poop, I am due to clean today after dinner.

Thank you for the response! What light do you use? Can you send me the link to that?
I will buy whatever is best for them, if they have the MBD how do I tell?

Where is the best place to purchase a leo?
Is petstores not the best place, or should I get them from a breeder.

I really do want to use dirt, but if I can't, I won't.
I'm planning on taking him out mostly for his food, and feeding him elsewhere.

When is the best time to start handling him, I know I should let him settle in before handling.
Should I feed my leo right when he arrives? Or wait till the next day, or a few days?

Is my shopping list, that was posted alright?
I'll add the light, and the other vitamin dust for their food.

My apologies, I forgot to add the heater I have.
Its an ultratherm heater, its 16x11.

Do they need basking lamps?
Thanks for the help!!

They don't climb so the vines would be for your enjoyment more than theirs. The Eco Earth is a big no. Go with a small or medium water bowl rather than a large, and I personally don't bother with a food bowl since they only eat live food and it won't stay in a dish for more than a few seconds.

I use these for UVB: https://www.chewy.com/zoo-med-reptisun- ... ation-Size
Zoomed sells a matching fixture. The T5HO is better but costs two to three times more and honestly you probably don't need anything that heavy duty.

MBD causes weakness, lack of coordination and ability to aim when feeding, loss of appetite and then weight loss. In later stages their legs start bowing and sheds get stuck on feet, then bones start breaking all over. I'll attach pictures of my really bad guys. They walk on their elbows because their legs have multiple breaks and their feet have been crushed from layers of stuck shed. The Kid's ribcage has actually collapsed because his bones turned to rubber. They are all vet checked and they aren't thought to be in pain now that they have recovered and had calcium to replenish their bones, but there is no way to fix the breaks so the injuries are permanent. All of it can be 100% prevented with dusting with calcium at every feeding and using UVB lighting for daytime species.

A private breeder with good reviews is the best bet for getting a healthy animal. Most shops sell babies and there are many that are calcium deficient or that carry a deadly untreatable parasite. If you have a reputable reptile rescue around they will almost always have leos that need homes. You can always find people rehoming online as well thought that is always a roulette on health. I got all my MBD rescues that way, and I do not regret it, they are awesome little dudea.

I am personally hands off with my leos. I have nerve damage and I worry too much about dropping them or knocking their tails off. Plus, babies scream and bite! Heck, my adults bite if I try to get them to move out of the way. Not my thing, we're all happier with them being untouched. All of mine were rescues in rough shape so I did not wait to start feeding or force feeding. I honestly don't know how long a healthy one should settle in for, I imagine a few days if it is like most reptiles, but they all go at their own paces.

This is the closest thing to dirt I would recommend: https://zoomed.com/excavator-clay-burrowing-substrate/

The heater may be a little big. It's recommended to only have a third of the tank heated, so they can regulate their temperature so they don't overheat or get too cold. I only go as big as 11x11. Most of mine for the leos are 11x6 or 8x6.

You may need a light to help with temps. The UTH by itself is probably not going to warm the other side up to 80 like is needed. You'll have to set it up and see what it does. I really do recommend a thermostat so there are no burned bellies! UTHs can get too hot, and I have seen many many tanks set up where the leo is overheating due to heat lights, which is why a thermostat is so important. There is no easy answer on what is going to work for you, just trial and error.

wodesorel wrote:They don't climb so the vines would be for your enjoyment more than theirs. The Eco Earth is a big no. Go with a small or medium water bowl rather than a large, and I personally don't bother with a food bowl since they only eat live food and it won't stay in a dish for more than a few seconds.

I use these for UVB: https://www.chewy.com/zoo-med-reptisun- ... ation-Size
Zoomed sells a matching fixture. The T5HO is better but costs two to three times more and honestly you probably don't need anything that heavy duty.

MBD causes weakness, lack of coordination and ability to aim when feeding, loss of appetite and then weight loss. In later stages their legs start bowing and sheds get stuck on feet, then bones start breaking all over. I'll attach pictures of my really bad guys. They walk on their elbows because their legs have multiple breaks and their feet have been crushed from layers of stuck shed. The Kid's ribcage has actually collapsed because his bones turned to rubber. They are all vet checked and they aren't thought to be in pain now that they have recovered and had calcium to replenish their bones, but there is no way to fix the breaks so the injuries are permanent. All of it can be 100% prevented with dusting with calcium at every feeding and using UVB lighting for daytime species.

A private breeder with good reviews is the best bet for getting a healthy animal. Most shops sell babies and there are many that are calcium deficient or that carry a deadly untreatable parasite. If you have a reputable reptile rescue around they will almost always have leos that need homes. You can always find people rehoming online as well thought that is always a roulette on health. I got all my MBD rescues that way, and I do not regret it, they are awesome little dudea.

I am personally hands off with my leos. I have nerve damage and I worry too much about dropping them or knocking their tails off. Plus, babies scream and bite! Heck, my adults bite if I try to get them to move out of the way. Not my thing, we're all happier with them being untouched. All of mine were rescues in rough shape so I did not wait to start feeding or force feeding. I honestly don't know how long a healthy one should settle in for, I imagine a few days if it is like most reptiles, but they all go at their own paces.

This is the closest thing to dirt I would recommend: https://zoomed.com/excavator-clay-burrowing-substrate/

The heater may be a little big. It's recommended to only have a third of the tank heated, so they can regulate their temperature so they don't overheat or get too cold. I only go as big as 11x11. Most of mine for the leos are 11x6 or 8x6.

You may need a light to help with temps. The UTH by itself is probably not going to warm the other side up to 80 like is needed. You'll have to set it up and see what it does. I really do recommend a thermostat so there are no burned bellies! UTHs can get too hot, and I have seen many many tanks set up where the leo is overheating due to heat lights, which is why a thermostat is so important. There is no easy answer on what is going to work for you, just trial and error.

I ordered the supplies! I switched to the clay, and bought that.
I'm sorry for such the late reply, I read it, but I was on mobile so I couldn't respond well.

All the things were ordered! I have a thermostat, 2 of them.
I'll put one on each side..

Thank you SO much for the help!

I haven't found a breeder that I liked so far, (near me).
Should I order from an online breeder, or should I pick up the leopard gecko myself?


I don't want a fancy leopard gecko, I just want a plain colored, and cheaper gecko.
I'm trying to aim for a gecko under 40$, do you have any recommendations on where to look?

Oh, how fun! New critters are always exciting. Think you could share some pictures once you get your gecko? I'm not big on lizards, or anything that looks like one (we had a blue-tailed lizard in our house once. Our dog tracked it down and alerted us, sweet thing), but I've always liked geckos. They're so interesting.

Moonlightdreams wrote:Oh, how fun! New critters are always exciting. Think you could share some pictures once you get your gecko? I'm not big on lizards, or anything that looks like one (we had a blue-tailed lizard in our house once. Our dog tracked it down and alerted us, sweet thing), but I've always liked geckos. They're so interesting.

I will definitely share lots of photos with you guys!
I'm still trying to find the right breeder, with great reviews.

Everything is purchased, I'm going to try to make it out to petco here soon, (its raining ).
I'm going to grab some driftwood hides, some basic hides, and the empty tank. Wish me luck, for making it out..

Check with any local reptile groups you can find, they may be able to recommend a legit good store for reptiles. I have one near me but I am in Ohio.

Also wanted to mention that when making up the Excavator Clay, do it near a sink and be careful, it stains everything when wet. It does not take much water to activate it, just a little bit. It will dry to hard by morning and using a small fan will speed it up to a few hours. Once it is dry it will be solid and hard, and they aren't kidding about making caves and hollows with it, it is a ton of fun to play with. Just don't get it wet again or it immediately turns back into goo! My poor gecko had a piece stuck to his mouth until his next shed due yo me spilling the water dish once.

Awwww, poor gecko!
That must of been bad for him!

I'll for sure do it by a sink.
Can I touch it..? How do I scape it out?

Do I put it in the tank and wait for it to dry?, or in the container I use?
Thanks for the help!

I have worked with it both bare handed and with gloves and it made no difference other than clean up. You want to shape it in the tank while it is wet to however you want it to look, and then let it sit until dry. I wiped down the glass carefully to clean up any major messes while it was wet and then finished the job with white vinegar once it had all dried.

They will pick one area, usually a corner, to do their business. Once they choose a spot you can put a little piece of reptile carpet or paper towel to make it easier to clean up. The tank I have the clay in gets the poo removed and then a dab of white vinegar to keep the smell down, and then I dampen just that corner and swap it out for fresh as needed so I don't have to tear it all apart. They have a unique odor, it took a little while to get used to it and I can always tell when there is a fresh one!

Alright! Thank you.
Could I make one of their hides out of the clay?

Maybe the 'cool' one?

I think you could! Did you get the bag by itself or the cavern kit? The kit comes with tubes and balloons to shape the clay but you could do it yourself.

I got the bag, I wasn't sure what the 'cavern kit' was.
Also, my edit didn't seem to work, but-

If the clay can't get wet, how do you do the 'moist' hide?
Doesn't it have to be wet?