bubblers (air stones)
bubblers (air stones)
So I just put bubblers in each of my tanks, and my crabs seem SOOOOOO much happier! Not only did it boost their humidity but, I think they like the noise, or something? We've had more shell changes, and more activity overall. I haven't seem any of them in the actual pools, but they are more active, for sure.
My one tank only has a screen top that i've got a towel, then metal tray over for heat/humidity retention, and that tank only had a 5 unit increase in humidity. The plexi/glass topped tank had enough of a boost that I had to turn off the bubbler and prop open the top (short term). The humidity was in excess of 90% when I got up this AM. They were uber active, though. They had a party in there last night!!
My one tank only has a screen top that i've got a towel, then metal tray over for heat/humidity retention, and that tank only had a 5 unit increase in humidity. The plexi/glass topped tank had enough of a boost that I had to turn off the bubbler and prop open the top (short term). The humidity was in excess of 90% when I got up this AM. They were uber active, though. They had a party in there last night!!
Re: bubblers (air stones)
Bubblers really make a difference. I saw an increased level of activity when I added bubblers last year: all of the crabs had to go over to investigate! Initially, only one of the crabs happily went all the way into the pools -- the others sat on the mesh ramps and dipped their legs -- but it didn't take long before all were enjoyed their mini-spas.
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On the Big Beach in the Sky: Murray, Gino, Oscar, Gordon, Ignatz, Harry and King Felix the Pale
Also Mom to Imogene the Syrian Hamster
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Re: bubblers (air stones)
AwwwCrabinski wrote:Bubblers really make a difference. I saw an increased level of activity when I added bubblers last year: all of the crabs had to go over to investigate! Initially, only one of the crabs happily went all the way into the pools -- the others sat on the mesh ramps and dipped their legs -- but it didn't take long before all were enjoyed their mini-spas.
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Re: bubblers (air stones)
How do air stones work? Do you need a pump?
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Re: bubblers (air stones)
At a minimum, you'll need a pump, airline tubing, and an air stone (or two). If you're running bubblers to both pools, you'll also need a splitter and possibly a control valve to balance the bubbles. A check valve isn't necessary but will protect your pump from having water back up into it during a power failure, so it's a good idea. These things can all be found in the fish section of most pet stores.Brthome85 wrote:How do air stones work? Do you need a pump?
The pump pushes air through the tubes and out through the air stone, which basically spreads the air out into finer bubbles. This agitates the surface of the water, which helps to boost humidity in the tank.
Re: bubblers (air stones)
I was pleasantly surprised by the low cost of setting this up, too. I got many of my pieces second hand, but the pumps are relatively inexpensive, and the tubing and air stones are cheap. An easy cost-effective way to bump humidity levels. I think the "enrichment" value is priceless, too.
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Re: bubblers (air stones)
Yes, moving water is definitely the best way to increase humidity in the tank. It also has the benefit of bringing fresh air constantly into the tank, while simultaneously warming and humidifying that air. It also keeps your water fresher, constantly aerating the water. Since all you need for bubble pools is the smallest air pump, some tubing, and a splitter (if you're going to make one pool a bubble pool, you might as well do both at once, I figure), it is definitely the cheapest and most effective humidity solution for most set-ups.
By the way, humidity "in excess of 90%" is not a bad thing. I know when I first started, I read the recommendation to "keep the humidity at 80%" and got all frantic when it was--as it most often was!--different from that. It does need to be over 75%, because less than that for any length of time will start to suffocate the crabs. But higher than that is fine (remember that, in the wild, it rains sometimes and then the humidity is 100%!). If your temperature varies from day to night, the humidity will vary, too. As temps drop, humidity rises; and vice-versa. So, my 90g is often down to the mid-to-high 70's for temperature in the morning, with humidity in the 90's (high 90's in some parts of the tank), then, as the day lamps come on and the air temp in the tank rises into the 80's or 90's (in the hottest areas), the humidity will naturally vary down into the low 80's to high 70's percentages. As long as the dryest reading in the tank is around 75%, I'm happy. If I spot any gauges reading less than that, I check to see if the substrate needs re-moistening, or re-adjust the timers on the pumps to have the water moving more. "Aiming for 80 and 80" is a general rule of thumb because it is easy to remember, but don't get stuck thinking that temp and humidity must always be precisely there; the crabs are a little tougher than that (thank goodness), and of course, nature doesn't have constant temp and humidity.
Oh--timers are great to have, too; you can get them fairly cheap at any hardware store. They allow you to set your lighting for day and night, and to cycle your air pump on or off, in half-hour increments, for the bubble pools to be on more or less, to fine-tune the humidity levels. So, while not absolutely necessary for the basic "bubble pool" set-up, if you can spring for a timer, it really helps.
By the way, humidity "in excess of 90%" is not a bad thing. I know when I first started, I read the recommendation to "keep the humidity at 80%" and got all frantic when it was--as it most often was!--different from that. It does need to be over 75%, because less than that for any length of time will start to suffocate the crabs. But higher than that is fine (remember that, in the wild, it rains sometimes and then the humidity is 100%!). If your temperature varies from day to night, the humidity will vary, too. As temps drop, humidity rises; and vice-versa. So, my 90g is often down to the mid-to-high 70's for temperature in the morning, with humidity in the 90's (high 90's in some parts of the tank), then, as the day lamps come on and the air temp in the tank rises into the 80's or 90's (in the hottest areas), the humidity will naturally vary down into the low 80's to high 70's percentages. As long as the dryest reading in the tank is around 75%, I'm happy. If I spot any gauges reading less than that, I check to see if the substrate needs re-moistening, or re-adjust the timers on the pumps to have the water moving more. "Aiming for 80 and 80" is a general rule of thumb because it is easy to remember, but don't get stuck thinking that temp and humidity must always be precisely there; the crabs are a little tougher than that (thank goodness), and of course, nature doesn't have constant temp and humidity.
Oh--timers are great to have, too; you can get them fairly cheap at any hardware store. They allow you to set your lighting for day and night, and to cycle your air pump on or off, in half-hour increments, for the bubble pools to be on more or less, to fine-tune the humidity levels. So, while not absolutely necessary for the basic "bubble pool" set-up, if you can spring for a timer, it really helps.
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Resident PP's:"Major Tom" & "Billie Jean"
“An adventure is only an inconvenience rightly considered. An inconvenience is only an adventure wrongly considered.”
― G.K. Chesterton
Resident PP's:"Major Tom" & "Billie Jean"
“An adventure is only an inconvenience rightly considered. An inconvenience is only an adventure wrongly considered.”
― G.K. Chesterton
Re: bubblers (air stones)
I love the timer idea. I currently have two fountain that I cycle.
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Re: bubblers (air stones)
Thanks for the tips, DragonsFly!
Last edited by crabby_D on Sat Feb 20, 2016 3:44 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: bubblers (air stones)
Clarification: actually, one of my gauges (the one up nearest to the lights) almost always reads lower than 75%; but that gauge is a combined temp/humidity gauge, put up there nearest to the lights, where the heat is coming from, to measure the most extreme temp in the tank. Right now, with day-lights having been on all day, it's 95 degrees F up there, and the relative humidity on that gauge says it's 60% (remember that "relative humidity" basically means "relative to temperature," and the hotter the air is, the more water vapor it could theoretically hold, so the lower your "relative humidity" will read, with the same amount of water vapor in the air). Since other gauges around the tank, in places where the crabs actually "do their thing," read 80%, 83%, and 93% (near the MSW bubbler), I figure the humidity is in a good range throughout the tank, and they can (or could, if they were up and about at this time) wander around and find comfortable hang-outs wherever they prefer. If THOSE started reading in the 70's, I would make changes.DragonsFly wrote: As long as the dryest reading in the tank is around 75%, I'm happy. If I spot any gauges reading less than that, I check to see if the substrate needs re-moistening, or re-adjust the timers on the pumps to have the water moving more. "Aiming for 80 and 80" is a general rule of thumb because it is easy to remember, but don't get stuck thinking that temp and humidity must always be precisely there; the crabs are a little tougher than that (thank goodness), and of course, nature doesn't have constant temp and humidity.
--{}: Dragons Fly Farm --{}:
Resident PP's:"Major Tom" & "Billie Jean"
“An adventure is only an inconvenience rightly considered. An inconvenience is only an adventure wrongly considered.”
― G.K. Chesterton
Resident PP's:"Major Tom" & "Billie Jean"
“An adventure is only an inconvenience rightly considered. An inconvenience is only an adventure wrongly considered.”
― G.K. Chesterton