HCA: Hermit Crab Association

Hi again friends -Please add (or correct) anything you can to this list, especially people with hands-on gecko experience.This info will be edited and organized into a caresheet, and everyone who contributes will receive credit.________________________________________LEOPARD GECKOSEublepharis macularis- adult length 7"-9", some live for 10-22 years- they originated in Pakistan and surrounding areas- there are basically 3 "phases" of gecko coloring, including the newer "chocolate" variety bred in captivity- they prefer several hiding spots for sleeping and prowling unobserved- optimum temp: 80-90 F (dropping to 70 at night is okay)- they are nocturnal, but night lights are not recommended (I assume unless they are those special nocturne ones) - they respond badly to ultraviolet light- they can co-habitate with succulent plants (excluding cactus)- they choose one spot to be the toilet area (yay!)- healthy leopards walk holding their body off the ground, they don't drag- a fat, purplish tail is the best and is indicative of good health- males don't co-habitate well, but a small group of females with one male is okay as long as they all have hiding spots- they have eyelids & can blink- they breed in captivity- two eggs is a normal clutch- small crickets, spiders and waxworms are good foods for juveniles- vermiculite or sphagnum moss in some hiding spots is good for females to feel secure and to bury their eggs- substrate materials include: sand, ground oyster shells, fine-granulated calcium carbonate, smooth gravel, or dry cypress mulch (aka Forest Bedding)- a young adult will eat 5-6 small crickets every other day- daily misting makes for easy shedding, especially for young ones- the temp of the incubating eggs determines the sex, above 90 F you get more males- they don't have adhesive pads on their feet like other geckos- with age, their stripes may change into spots or flecks- they require a basking area- large adults may eat pinky mice- their tails may be easily broken off (automized) if mishandled

a holding period of 5-15 mins a day is enough.... more then that could hurt them.... the basking spot is not required & a 25w light bulb will work for this.... since they r nocturnal.... u can also use repti-carpet or paper towels for substrate as they tend to eat the sand & other stuff when trying to eat & can cause impaction.... the daily mistings should only be done in the shed box (they need one shed box or laying box that is humid)....if u incubate for males any females will come out acting like males.... hope some of this helps good gecko sheet ~Zeke

Geckos need a temperature gradient, a cool and a warm end. A nocturnal infrared light is recommended, as well as a moonlight bulb for nightime. There have been incidences of blindness affecting geckos kept under flourescent lights.They should have a bowl of calcium available at all times.A vitamin/mineral supplement should be given 2 to 3 times a week.Variety is the key to a healthy leopard gecko. It is believed that a combination of worms and crickets provide the best diet.Waxworms should only be given as a treat, due to high fat and sugar content, and is also given to small juveniles to help them grow and to gravid females.Gravid females need a constant supply of calcium. Lack of calcium is dangerous during this period.Some people buy calcium powders without phosphorus, for daily use, which are readily available at most pet stores. Too much phosphorus is dangerous in reptile diets. You can also grind up cuttle fish bone for the calcium bowl.Some leopard geckos will actually eat peach, mango or apple babyfood, others will not. This should only be fed as a treat.All prey must be gut loaded (fed) for a minimun of 24 hours before being introduced to the geckos. Some people find that their geckos will be even healthier by gut loading the prey a good week before being fed. Unfortunately, most prey coming from the pet store are grossly underfed and dehydrated. The more healthy food the crickets consume, and the more that is in their stomachs at the time the gecko feeds, the more nutrients will be passed to your gecko.When feeding crickets, be sure to keep their dry feed away from the wet food. The cornmeal used in commercial gut loads will make the crickets sick if it gets wet.The best foods for providing water to the crickets are potato slices, orange slices, shredded carrots and apples. A variety of fresh fruits and veggies will be enjoyed by the crickets.Provide a hidey spot for your crickets, so they do not fight with each other.Dish soap residue is fatal to crickets. Do not wash cricket apparatus with soap.Geckos need fresh water every day. Water should be treated to remove all chlorine, chloramines and heavy metals. There are some reptile water treatments on the market that include the right salinity and added calcium, such as ZooMed's Repti-safe.A tank clean should be done once a week. Deocorations should be washed with an anti-micribial agent. The geckos should be removed during cleaning, and only returned to the tank when all fumes and residues have dissipated. The tank can either be cleaned and disinfected with commercial products sold at pet stores, or with a 3%bleach solution. Whatever you use, be sure to rinse the tank and decprations throughly with water afterwards.The humidity in the tank (hidey box excluded) shouldn't go much above 40% relative.Two temperature gauges and one humidity gauge should be used in a gecko tank.Juveniles should never be on any substrate other than paper towels, soy ink paper, or reptile carpet. If you use reptile carpet, be sure to snip any lose strings regularly, as the geckos can lose their toes quite easy by having their circulation cut off.If your geckos has trouble shedding its skin, he/she will need immediate attention, as the leftover skin can cut off circulation and cause toe and linb loss! A gecko should sit in a container of luke warm water to soften the skin.Geckos need vet care. If you suspect anything is wrong with your gecko, or if it is skinny, has diahrea, has hip bones showing or skin that won't come off, sores, etc. they should be taken to a vet immediately! If your gecko looks bloated and stops eating, he may have a stomach impactation. It is a good idea to have a fecal done once a year to detect parasites.This is all I can think of for now!Gertie

Geckos can carry salmonella. You should wash your hands after handling or cleaning the tank. Geckos shouldn't be in households with babies under a year old because of this.Calcium supplement is very important. Without it the gecko can suffer from metobolic bone disease. Insects can be coated by putting them in a baggie with the powder and shaking it. Once a week you should coat them with Calcium with vitamin D3 and a reptile multivitamin with Beta Carotene. Don't use the Vitamin D3 calcium every day. They can overdose on the D3. You should use calcium without the D3 for daily or every other day feedings and for the dish in the tank.If the tail comes off, it will regenerate, but it will not look as nice as the original. Never try to hold on to or pull a geckos tail.

Of all the lizards, geckos are some of the least likely to carry salmonella. But they will sometimes carry it. I think that if proper hygene is practiced, there shouldn't be a problem if there is a baby in the house. Iguanas and Turtles most of the time do carry salmonella, so I think they can be way more dangerous in a household with babies or little children. Just my two cents. I think there should be a warning for people to use proper hygene no matter what. Gertie

heeheeI am a little obsessed with geckos, eh???I should add, one gecko can live in a ten gallon aquarium, two to three in a twenty gallon long or 29 gallon, etc.Although, I am finding with my personal gecko experience that a 29 gallon for three is suitable, but I would rather have them in a 40 gallon breeder! Someday...........Gertie