HCA: Hermit Crab Association

I initially sought out more information online because two of my five new hermies died overnight. The setup I had been instructed to buy included pink reptile sand, a few feeding/water shells, and a 5.5 gal tank with a glass lid to keep them in. So far, I've added dishes of salt and fresh water, extra shells, and a tank heater. I know that I need to replace the sand, get them something to climb on, and possibly get a bigger tank. The two in painted shells won't change out of them, so I may need to get more shell options. I feel terrible for these poor crabs. What else needs to be done?

First let me welcome you to the forum and the family here at LHC.com, we are so glad you found us.Secondly let me apologize for the lateness of this reply.Now down to business, yes your going to need to upgrade to a ten gallon aquarium as this is the smallest size enclosure you can have and still be able to fit in their food and water dishes, extra shells, hides, climbing structure and have room leftover for the crabs to be able to move around.You'll need to have a heat pad(uth pad) rated for an enclosure at least three times the size of the tank you plan to use it on so for a ten gallon you'd need a heat pad rated for a thirty gallon to get the right heat output.Always side or back mount heat pads as bottom mounting puts burrowed crabs at risk of overheating and because the depth and dampness of our substrate acts as an insulating barrier effectively trapping the heat next to the pad where it will build up to well over 100 degrees.If any cooler water should suddenly find its way to the bottom and make contact with the expanding pane the glass will try to respond to the drop in temp by shrinking which will result in a cracking of the glass which depending on where the tank is sitting could spill everything out of the tank including the crabs.It will be cheaper to use play sand from a home improvement store you can get fifty pound bags of it for 4 or 5 dollars, make sure to pick bags that are near the center of the pallet and do the sniff test if the bags smell oily or chemically then they are not fit to buy.Once you get your sand you'll want to hydrate or wet it to sandcastle consistency so it will hold its shape for tunneling and molting purposes.I'll let you digest this bit and then either I or someone else will get back to you.Again welcome to the forum.

Thanks for the welcome and the reply! I will gladly take any advice I can get. I will get a bigger aquarium as soon as I can. For whatever reason, none of the stores where I live carry empty tanks. If I can't convince the local walmart to order one for me, I may have to take a trip to the nearest "big city."The heater I have is a zoo med adhesive hermit crab heater and is probably too small. I have it back mounted and they are all sleeping next to it today. Would it be safe to put a (human) electric heating pad under or over the tank until I can order something bigger for them?I changed their sand out this morning and I think I have it properly hydrated. I should also have a coconut hut and some choya wood for them by tomorrow. Again, thank you for helping.

sounds good! human heating pads for backs and sitting on sound fine, i know somebody who uses one for his crabitat! welcome this wonderfully crabby forum. just make sure that the shells are not painted, if you got them from petco then they probably are. also if you want to make your crabitat even more perfect, then you can grow alfalfa sprouts, i might do that soon, and they are safe! also you need a thermometer and a hygrometer. good luck to you, and again welcome, we love the opportunity to introduce more people to hermit crabs!

Landhermitcrabs.com landhermitcrabs.com Forums Hop To Forum Categories LHC Active Hop To Forums Zoea Food ListClosed Topic ClosedGo New Find Notify Tools Food List Welcome, crazycrabber [Logout] Crabby Abby*~*Keeper of The Knowings*~*Picture of Crabby Abby posted 11 August 2008 12:02 AMFor a fresh food diet you want to offer protein, fruits, veggies, calcium, cellulose, fats and oils. Here's a thread with food group suggestions and some easy to obtain foods you can get without going online.Check ingredients and try not to offer anything with (table) salt, commercial foods with ethoxyquin or copper sulfate, or foods treated with pesticides because they don't discriminate between hermits and the pests they were intended for. Washing fruits, veggies, plants and flowers will remove pesticide residue from the outside but because it's applied during the growing period it's in the fruit also. Here's an archived thread on shopping for safe produce.Epicurean Hermit food list:Acorns (crush and soak overnight in salt water then drain before serving)AlfalfaAlmonds, crushedAmaranth (Ancient grain)Anchovy oilApple and natural, unsweetened apple sauceApricotArameArtichokesAsparagusAvocadoBamboo (live plants make wonderful tank toys and grazing)BananaBarleyBeans, yellow waxBell peppers (red, yellow, orange, green or purple)Bee pollenBeetsBilberries/HuckleberriesBlackberry leavesBlackberryBlackstrap molasses (unsulfured) - amazingly high in nutrients such as calcium and potassium; 1-2 times monthlyBladderwrackBloodworms (alive or dead)BlueberriesBorage blossoms (Borago officinalis)Broccoli and leavesBrown riceBrussels sproutsCabbage (all varieties)Calcium carbonate powder, plainCalendula flowers (Calendula officinalis)-Also known as "pot marigolds"Camellia (Camellia japonica)CanteloupeCarnation flowers (Dianthus caryophyllus)CarrotsCarrot topsCauliflower and leavesCelery leavesCereal; Brown rice, soy, wheat or 7 grain, muesliChamomile flowersChardCheese (be sure to get all natural varieties, serve as occasional treat)CherimoyaCherryChestnutsChicken bonesChicken, cooked and unseasoned (smash the bone for marrow access)ChickweedCholla woodCilantroCitrus (all fruits)ClamsClover blossoms and leavesCoconut and coconut oilCod liver oilCollardsCork barkCorn (on the cob, too)CornmealCranberries (dehydrated)CricketsCrustaceans (any and all crustacea including crayfish, lobster, shrimp and other crabs)CucumberCurrantsCuttlefish bone, powderedDairy products (milk, cheese, live-culture yogurt) **Daisies (Bellis perennis)Dandelion flowers, leaves and roots (Taraxacum officinale)Day lilies (Hemerocallis)Egg, scrambled or soft boiledEggshellsElderberry flowers (Sambucus canadensis)Extra-virgin olive oilFig (ripe fruit only)Fish flakes w/out chemical preservativesFish OilFlax seeds/Linseeds (crushed)Flax seed oil (small amounts infrequently)Frozen fish food (esp. algae, krill and brine shrimp)GarbanzosGladiolus (Gladiolus spp.)Gooseberry (ripe or overripe)Grape LeafGrapesGrapevine (vines and root)Green and red leaf lettuce (not iceburg; dark green)Green BeansHazel leavesHempseed MealHibiscus flowers (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis)Hikari products: brine shrimp, krill, crab cuisine, sea plankton (no preservatives)Hollyhock flowersHoney (organic, or at least locally produced, for anti-microbials)HoneybushHoneydew MelonHoneysuckle flowers (Japanese Lonicera japonica)Impatiens (Impatiens wallerana)Irish MossJapanese red maple leaves, dried (Acer palmatum)Jasmine flowers (Jasmine officinale)Johnny-Jump-Up flowers--(Viola tricolor)KamutKelpKiwiLentilsLilac (Syringa vulgaris)Lima BeansLobster with crushed exoskeletonLocusts (dead)Lychee fruit (fresh; no kernel)Macadamia nutsMadrona woodMangoMangrove (small live trees can be obtained on eBay, use in water basin)Maple leavesMaple syrupMarion BerriesMilk thistle flowers (Silybum marianum)Mint (but not peppermint!)Most organic baby foodsMuscadine (grapes)MushroomsMusselsNasturtium flowers (Tropaeolum majus)Nettle (wilted)Nettle, stinging (pour boiling water over leaves first)Oak Leaves and barkOctopusOkraOlive and olive oil (extra virgin)OrangesOystersPansy flowers and leaves (Viola X Wittrockiana)PapayaParsleyParsnipPassionflowers (Passifloraceae - passion flower family)PassionfruitPeachesPeanut butter (avoid sugar, corn syrup and hydrogenated oils)PeanutsPearsPeasPecansPecan barkPersimmonPetunia blossomsPineapplePine Nuts(without the shell).Pistachio nutsPlumPomegranatePopcorn (unseasoned, unflavored, unbuttered)Potato (no green parts, including eyes)Psyllium & husksPumpkinPurslane (Portulaca oleracea)Quinoa (New World grain)Raisins (no sulphur dioxide)RaspberryRed raspberry leaves (highest bioavailable calcium source + vit. C and trace minerals)Rolled OatsRooibus (or rooibos)Roquette (Eruca vesicaria)Rose petals (Rosa spp)Rose hipsRoyal JellyRussian Olive leaves (Elaeagnus angustifolia)Sage blossoms (Salvia officinalis)SalmonSand dollarsSardinesScallopsSea biscuitsSea fan (red or black)Sea grassesSea saltSea SpongesSemolinaSesame seeds (crushed)Sesame oil (in tiny amounts as appetite stimulant)Shrimp and exoskeletonsSnails (use human food grade only; not wild snails)Sorrel (Rumex acetosa)Soy and soy products (human grade; miso, tofu, etc.)SpeltSpinachSpirulina (complete protein and chlorophyll source; highest in beta carotene)Sprouts (flax, wheat, bean, alfalfa, etc.)SquidSquash (and squash blossom)Star fruit (carambola)Strawberry and topsSugar caneSunflower Seeds (crushed), flowers and leaves (Helianthus)Swamp cypress wood (false cypress, taxodium sp.)Sweet potatoSycamore leafTahini (no garlic variety)TamarilloTangerineTimothy hayTomatoTree FernTriticaleTulip flowers (Tulipa spp.)TunaTurnip greensViola flowersViolet flowers (Viola odorata)WalnutsWasa All-Natural Crispbread (Oat flavor)WatercressWatermelonWheat grassWheatWheat germWhitefishWhole Wheat CouscousWild riceZucchini (and zucchini flowers)*This message has been edited. Last edited by: Crabber85, 06 July 2012 11:09 PM

what i sent is the food list, so you know what is safe to feed them.

I do still have two in painted shells, and they are from petco. The lady working there told me she hated them and would gladly give me all of them for $1. I don't know why a pet store employee would say they hate a pet that someone is trying to buy from them. Anyway, I was able to get a few unpainted shells out of the selection, but they just don't seem to like them. One even had the paint peeling off of his shell, so I picked off as much as I could to prevent any of them from eating it.Thanks for the food list, I didn't expect it to be so long! They went through about half a mineral block and some dried coconut the first night, completely ignoring the hermit crab food as far as I can tell. I have a few things on the list growing in my garden that I can add.

Most store bought food for the crabs isn't good for them they usually have several ingredients that can be harmful if continually given( can't remember what they're called off the top of my head). It is best to feed fresh organic or freeze dried food or baby food. Their are a few sites that are trusted to sell powdered food. The hermit crab patch and hermit crab addiction stores are really good and well known on the forum you can find links to them in the links section/forum.

The food I bought them is by Florida Marine Research.Contents: corn meal, soybean meal, alfalfa meal, animal and plant protein products , soybean oil, coconut oil, magnesium oxide, copper sulphate, calcium iodate, cobalt, calcium carbonate, Vit A, E, B12, Niacin, and riboflavinAlso, it's not a powder. The alfalfa is in pellets and the rest is crushed to a grainy consistency.If that's not suitable for them, I will stick to things out of my kitchen. Do I need to know of any foods that they need more often than others?

no don't use it! copper sulfate is poisonous to poor crabs! use the stuff in your kitchen.

No worries. Tonight they are dining on peas and carrots from my garden and steamed shrimp. They were all eating on the shrimp before I could even get the veggies in.

I use the categorized food list to make sure I don't miss any of the important nutrients. Here. As long as you have a wide variety of each during the course of the week/month, you should be good.Also be very careful using a heating pad designed for human use, they can be a fire hazard and the warning label on them talks about not leaving them on for extended periods of time and not leaving them unattended. I know people use them in a pinch, also know people who have used hand warmers on the outside of the tank but be careful.

also i will tell you what you will need them for. carotene enriched foods keep their color up. calcium you can use especially after they molt along with letting them eat their old exoskeleton, because they lose 99% of their calcium when they molt. and protein you might need also in normal situations, but like calcium and carotene, you will need it in other situations. if you can't separate molting crabs, then you can give them proteins, like bloodworms and shrimp, so that they don't attack the one who is trying to molt. but if one is molting, then you either make an isolation tank for the one who isn't, so you don't hurt the molter, or you can cover the molter with a bottle cap, but make sure that the others can't dig it up. finally, the best way is to take the one who isn't molting and give him to a friend of yours, whose crabs are friendly with yours, so that your molter is safe, you don't have to make a tank, and your non molting crab doesn't get depressed because he is alone. oh, i forgot, you have three. but still you now know some useful strategies when the time comes. and keep it very dark, and still warm and humid, but make sure that the heating pad, like crabber85 said, is on the side, not the bottom.

Thanks, I bookmarked the food list for quick-reference. I'll have a new tank heater Tuesday, so the heating pad is definitely temporary. I should also have a 10 gallon setup within a week. I'll probably use the 5 gallon as an ISO.Since they can have green beans, can I give them chinese long beans? They're very similar to cowpeas also.