ReptiSun - which one to use??
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Topic author
ReptiSun - which one to use??
ReptiSun --- which one to choose?
I know I need to replace the florescent bulb in my light.... but not sure on the intensitiy...
Reptisun 5.0 bulbs offer the UVB and UVA rays that are necessary for the good health of your reptile. UVB rays strengthen and improve shell growth on all captive turtles and tortoises, as well as allowing all reptiles the ability to regulate their own Vitamin D3 levels, which eliminates the risk of vitamin D3 overdose from synthetic sources. UVA wavelength increases appetite and physical activity, while helping to induce reproductive behaviors. UVA rays are also beneficial to the psychological well-being of captive reptiles.
Reptisun 2.0 UVB Fluorescent Bulbs have a Color Rendering Index of 98, which allows for optimum viewing of your animals. Enhances the natural colors of your snakes and amphibians. Use only with animals who do not have high UVB requirements.
So many choices....what to do...
I know I need to replace the florescent bulb in my light.... but not sure on the intensitiy...
Reptisun 5.0 bulbs offer the UVB and UVA rays that are necessary for the good health of your reptile. UVB rays strengthen and improve shell growth on all captive turtles and tortoises, as well as allowing all reptiles the ability to regulate their own Vitamin D3 levels, which eliminates the risk of vitamin D3 overdose from synthetic sources. UVA wavelength increases appetite and physical activity, while helping to induce reproductive behaviors. UVA rays are also beneficial to the psychological well-being of captive reptiles.
Reptisun 2.0 UVB Fluorescent Bulbs have a Color Rendering Index of 98, which allows for optimum viewing of your animals. Enhances the natural colors of your snakes and amphibians. Use only with animals who do not have high UVB requirements.
So many choices....what to do...
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Topic author
What does a UTH look like? I tried to look it up on PetSmart website - no luck maybe because I don't know what I'm looking for.
The bulbs are florescent so they don't put off too much heat (at least the ones that I'm currently using don't). I'm trying to make sure they get the UVA/UVB requirements.
Thank you
The bulbs are florescent so they don't put off too much heat (at least the ones that I'm currently using don't). I'm trying to make sure they get the UVA/UVB requirements.
Thank you
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Topic author
go for the UVA/UVB one, crabs need full spectrum lighting to help with their metabolism. You'll also notice a big change in activity if you set up a day/night cycle for them
I solved my humidity problems by switching from a UTH which dried out my substrate to using only lights, so it's interesting to hear that lights give people humidity problems.
I solved my humidity problems by switching from a UTH which dried out my substrate to using only lights, so it's interesting to hear that lights give people humidity problems.
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Topic author
I'd go with the highest available----I use a Repti-Glo 8.0 because, after doing a lot of research, it turns out that the fluorescent UVB lights really do not give off a lot of UVB at all. So, the higher it's rated, the more actual UVB will get to the crabbies, there's simply no chance of getting a fluorescent UVB light that's "too strong".
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Topic author
I use the Repti-glo 5.0. A UTH is great for heating down here in the winter months, but unless you have your tank in front of a window (and the crabs receive natural light), you will need a day/night cycle. Flourescent bulbs typically don't affect the humdity at all. In the summer months, in addition to the Repti-glo, I also use heat bulbs (40W red-glow bulbs) around the clock to keep the tanks heated slightly. When winter arrives, I switch on the UTH, too.
What size tank do you have? We should be able to figure lighting & heating from there, since we are in the same climate.
What size tank do you have? We should be able to figure lighting & heating from there, since we are in the same climate.
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Topic author
I have a 55 gallon tank. There are two 18" florescent bulbs in the lighting on top.
The are not directly in front of a window...beside one. and a slider on the other side..so a little natural light comes in. But I have been keeping the light on - - so that I can see them in the evening... I started turning off their light when I go to bed (usually late) and turn it back on in the morning.
We keep our house around 75 degrees when we are home ...so the tank naturally stays around 77 - 80. The humidity is constant with the bubblers in the tank. I'm more concerned in the winter ... we don't use the heat (except for those couple of weeks :):) ).
I still don't know what a UTH is. Do you have a website that sells them that I can see? I looked at the pads that you stick to the bottom of the tank - - but it didn't make me jump up and down. I thought that it would warm the substrate...and I would never see the crabbies.
Any advise on this would be appreciated as I'm buying in pieces each week... and trying not to waste money in the process.
Oh... I'm looking at a 30 gallon tank this week too. I really want to get some tiny crabs to watch... :):) They will get lost in the 55.
Thanks
The are not directly in front of a window...beside one. and a slider on the other side..so a little natural light comes in. But I have been keeping the light on - - so that I can see them in the evening... I started turning off their light when I go to bed (usually late) and turn it back on in the morning.
We keep our house around 75 degrees when we are home ...so the tank naturally stays around 77 - 80. The humidity is constant with the bubblers in the tank. I'm more concerned in the winter ... we don't use the heat (except for those couple of weeks :):) ).
I still don't know what a UTH is. Do you have a website that sells them that I can see? I looked at the pads that you stick to the bottom of the tank - - but it didn't make me jump up and down. I thought that it would warm the substrate...and I would never see the crabbies.
Any advise on this would be appreciated as I'm buying in pieces each week... and trying not to waste money in the process.
Oh... I'm looking at a 30 gallon tank this week too. I really want to get some tiny crabs to watch... :):) They will get lost in the 55.
Thanks
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OH I see, sorry the ole brain ain't on the ball lately, I thought the one bulb didn't produce the UVA/UVB only the colour enhancing :roll: . Ok, I agree with the others here who have stated that the higher the UV the better. It didn't click in that you were using fluorescents, which you're right don't put out much heat and shouldn't bother the humidity. I use the repti-sun bulb (incandescent) for heating in the day time and night glos (also incandescent) for at night. I highly recommend using day and night lights because of the change in activity levels I saw when I first changed my crabs to a day/night cycle. The night lamps also let you see your crabs without having the day type lights on which mess up their circadian rhythm. Like Star, I also find my crabs basking, E's, Rugs, PP's and Straws I've all seen them sitting on the log under the light bulb when it's on.
If you dont' want to use heat lamps you could try side mounting a UTH. This is the brand I used for my 15 gallon: http://www.petsmart.com/global/product_ ... 30050&Ne=2
Here's another brand: http://www.petsmart.com/global/product_ ... 30050&Ne=2
If you dont' want to use heat lamps you could try side mounting a UTH. This is the brand I used for my 15 gallon: http://www.petsmart.com/global/product_ ... 30050&Ne=2
Here's another brand: http://www.petsmart.com/global/product_ ... 30050&Ne=2
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- Jedi Tech Support
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The higher number (2.0, 5.0, 8.0) outputs more UVA/UVB and a wider spectrum of light.
A person at a petstore suggested that a 2.0 would be enough for a small 10-40g tank, while a 5.0 would be for a 50-100g tank, and 8.0 for larger tanks. The larger the tank, the more UV output you'll need.
Keeping the substrate moist and having a bubbler solves the humidity problems from incandescent lights. Flourescents don't output barely any heat.
A person at a petstore suggested that a 2.0 would be enough for a small 10-40g tank, while a 5.0 would be for a 50-100g tank, and 8.0 for larger tanks. The larger the tank, the more UV output you'll need.
Keeping the substrate moist and having a bubbler solves the humidity problems from incandescent lights. Flourescents don't output barely any heat.
JMT.
Stuck-up, half-witted, scruffy-looking crab-herder since '92.
Stuck-up, half-witted, scruffy-looking crab-herder since '92.
When you set up the light, it's best to place the UV light located within 18 inches of the tank. Beyond 18 inches, the UV output diminishes, so for maximum UV absorption the crabs will need to be able to get within that range of the bulb. That probably won't be a big deal, but I thought it's worth mentioning.
Also, you need to have the light falling directly into the crabitat without anything separating the bulb from the inside of the tank-- not even glass or clear plastic. Nothing but open air. This is because the UV rays are completely or almost completely blocked out by plastic, and glass, despite actual light being able to go through. That's why you have to have UV bulbs for reptiles instead of just putting the tank near a sunny window!
A screen lid lets more UV rays through, but the wire mesh still blocks out a significant amount. So basically, if you have your UV light coming in through a lid, you won't get much if any benefit from it. I know, leaving the tank uncovered is bad for maintaining the humidity levels.... Fortunately I don't think you will really need to have the UV bulb on all day; an hour or two per day should suffice. Misting should be good enough for that long, and bubbler pools also would help a lot.
Correct me if I'm wrong. :)
Also, you need to have the light falling directly into the crabitat without anything separating the bulb from the inside of the tank-- not even glass or clear plastic. Nothing but open air. This is because the UV rays are completely or almost completely blocked out by plastic, and glass, despite actual light being able to go through. That's why you have to have UV bulbs for reptiles instead of just putting the tank near a sunny window!
A screen lid lets more UV rays through, but the wire mesh still blocks out a significant amount. So basically, if you have your UV light coming in through a lid, you won't get much if any benefit from it. I know, leaving the tank uncovered is bad for maintaining the humidity levels.... Fortunately I don't think you will really need to have the UV bulb on all day; an hour or two per day should suffice. Misting should be good enough for that long, and bubbler pools also would help a lot.
Correct me if I'm wrong. :)
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Topic author
This is bad for me.... there are times that I don't get to sit until the night cycle should start......
I have glass tops that the lights sit on and go into the tank. Right now they have a 50/50 bulb for marine life in them.
Does everyone have an open aquarium -- or mesh top for their set up -- or lights inside the aquarium?
I have glass tops that the lights sit on and go into the tank. Right now they have a 50/50 bulb for marine life in them.
Does everyone have an open aquarium -- or mesh top for their set up -- or lights inside the aquarium?