DIY tank lid

Guest · Post by **Guest** » Fri Mar 12, 2010 6:46 am

Howdy all,
I am now the proud protector of 6 PP's after they arrived safe and sound a couple of weeks ago

They are currently in a temp 2 foot tank whilst i sort out the new 3 foot (42 gal) tank as their permanent home.
I have some ideas about a waterfall using chunky pieces of slate, and i have a large ornate piece of drift wood for them to climb on along with other bits and pieces of wood and netting.
The only thing I'm unsure of is how to make the lid.
I'm thinking of making a 3 foot marine plywood lid with a hole cut to fit the dome for the heat light, and either an 18" or 24" reptisun 2 fluorescent tube. The lid would be hinged along its length so it can be opened, and be about 5 or 6 inches high, so i can make the most of the 18 inches height of the glass tank.
Two questions really, is marine ply ok?, and is there anything to look out for with varnishes barring the obvious (no anti fungal additive).
thanks

Glenn

JeriC · Post by **JeriC** » Fri Mar 12, 2010 10:24 pm

Honestly, I wouldnt use marine wood as it has harmful chemicals added to make it "marine grade".
I actually work at a boat manufacturing facility & the wood that we use in the boats & for the upholstery is very, very strong smelling.
I dont really know, but I would think that after a while, the fumes would be harmful for the crabs & we all know how they like to nibble on things as well.
I personally would go with plexi glass if you are wanting to make your own lid. Just to be on the safe side.

Guest · Post by **Guest** » Fri Mar 12, 2010 10:32 pm

I just went and got a sheet of glass cut and velcroed it to the top so it wouldn't slide. but its not that fancy X3

Guest · Post by **Guest** » Sun Mar 14, 2010 6:21 am

Thanks for the advise.
I'm trying to build more of a hood than a lid, so it can house the lighting in it. I'm not too keen on using plastics or glass due to the temps the night glo bulb. I've already had a sheet of glass crack because of it. I thought of marine ply mainly due to the fact it can stand the humidity without delaminating.

Guest · Post by **Guest** » Wed Mar 17, 2010 11:39 am

i made tanks and lids before. the lid i made now is just a thick plexiglass, i cut holes for light domes and vents. most light domes have 4 holes drilled in the mouth of it, so you use wire to hold the dome in place. only want a space between the dome and lid, so the hot cant escape that is what the vents are for. just enough of a gap the platic wont melt.

zilla makes some great products

Vents http://www.zilla-rules.com/products/fre ... s-port.htm
domes http://www.zilla-rules.com/products/pre ... r-dome.htm
combo light http://www.zilla-rules.com/products/combo-dome.htm

Guest · Post by **Guest** » Fri Mar 19, 2010 4:42 am

Thanks for the links, i've got a light dome like that which i plan on using.
I suppose the best way would be to cut a circular hole in the plexiglass lid for the bulb to shine through, and mount the dome slightly raised above it with a gap to prevent the heat warping it?
Would a 1 inch gap be enough or would that still be too close?

Guest · Post by **Guest** » Fri Mar 19, 2010 10:54 am

you could cut a few way. i drill hole and fit a blade in it for a scroll saw. you want the hole cause most lights be to hot to sit on top. plus you dont want any level of filter on the lights. alot of clear platics are made to resist uv light.

an inch above should be good, unless you trying to a hotter smaller spot of light, then you can lower it into the cage an inch form the hole. now uvb light kind dont put off the same heat of uva.

a rule i use is, if its too hot for your hand then just about is for anything esle outside of metal. link up some pictures or blueprint.